Jeffrey Banks has spent a lifetime shaping American menswear, yet for many years he chose to spotlight the industry rather than himself. After co-authoring seven books on fashion, he has finally shifted the narrative inward with his own memoir, Storyteller: Tales from a Fashion Insider. The book traces more than fifty years of work, friendships and defining moments, offering a portrait of a designer whose influence has long been felt but only occasionally celebrated.
Now 72, Banks finds himself in a rare moment of renewed attention. One of his archival designs was recently selected for the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s exhibition Superfine: Tailoring Black Style, placing his early work alongside pieces that have shaped the evolution of contemporary tailoring. At the same time, he is preparing to relaunch his menswear label—a brand he first debuted in 1976 when he was just 21.
Banks’ early collections combined polished American sportswear with bold colour, pattern and texture. Tartan jackets, pinstriped suits and the occasional extravagant fur reflected his instinctive feel for dressing men with personality at a time when few Black designers had access to similar retail platforms. His pieces appeared in major department stores across the United States and secured him multimillion-dollar licensing deals, cementing his reputation as both a creative force and a commercial thinker.
The new iteration of the Jeffrey Banks label, set to arrive in January, departs from the structured world of suiting. Instead, he is turning his attention to sustainable sportswear, including knitwear and underwear. The decision, he says, reflects not only industry shifts but also the evolving tastes of younger customers. “As much as I love suits and tailored clothing, I don’t think that’s the business for now,” he explained during a recent conversation.
For Banks, the memoir and the relaunch represent parallel forms of renewal. His colleagues have rallied around him, attending events on his book tour and celebrating the publication. The Council of Fashion Designers of America even hosted a discussion between Banks and Isaac Mizrahi, who once worked for him on his womenswear line. Mizrahi recalled Banks as one of the very first designers he saw successfully juggling multiple ventures at once—an early sign of the versatility that would define his career.
The book itself is as much about personal history as it is about fashion. Banks describes it as a tribute to the people who supported him, particularly his mother, who will soon turn 105. He writes with affection about the shared love of clothing that shaped their relationship, including the yellow wool coat and matching dress he designed for her at the age of ten. Long-time colleague and former CFDA President Stan Herman said Banks’ storytelling abilities are as noteworthy as his clothes, joking that he must have been “born with a Vogue in his crib.”
Within Storyteller, Banks highlights the mentors who guided him, including Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein. His early encounters with Lauren began in a Washington, D.C. menswear shop, where the designer famously lent him a suit for prom and later hired him while he studied at Pratt Institute. Klein recruited him while he attended Parsons, and Banks eventually found himself seating Klein and Lauren side by side at his first fashion show—a moment that symbolised his transition from student to industry peer.
His professional ascent accelerated quickly. After helping Klein expand his menswear line, Banks launched his own label and branched into outerwear, furs, childrenswear and womenswear. In 1980, he revitalised Merona Sport, transforming it from a modest family brand to a thriving success. He writes that the label’s revenue leapt from $7 million to $70 million in six months—a milestone Isaac Mizrahi fondly described as “striking gold.”
As Banks prepares to relaunch his menswear label, figures across the fashion world are once again expressing their admiration. Fern Mallis, former head of the CFDA, noted that Banks remains “as relevant as ever,” adding that his community of devoted supporters is eager to embrace his return. For Banks, who has spent decades telling other people’s stories, this new chapter marks the moment his own finally steps into the spotlight.
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