The latest menswear presentation by Giorgio Armani marked a significant moment in the house’s history, as it was the first collection shown following the designer’s death in September. Presented on the final day of Milan Fashion Week, the show introduced a new chapter under the sole creative direction of longtime collaborator Leo Dell’Orco.
While the collection remained firmly rooted in Armani’s design language, it carried subtle signals of evolution. Soft tailoring — long considered the backbone of the house — formed the foundation of the lineup, but there was an added sharpness and fluidity that suggested a quiet shift rather than a dramatic reinvention.
From the opening look, colour set the tone. A loden green top anchored a textured jacket and grey trousers, immediately establishing a palette that felt both grounded and refreshed. Throughout the collection, iridescent jewel tones emerged in controlled flashes — soothing purples, deep lapis blues and muted metallic hues that caught the light without overpowering the garments. These tones played against luxurious fabrics including velvet, cashmere and chenille, lending depth and movement to otherwise restrained silhouettes.
References to the brand’s archive were woven in with ease. Blouson bomber jackets, belted trench coats and crisp white shirts paired with ties nodded to Armani’s long-standing codes. The signature pleated trouser reappeared, maintaining the designer’s preference for relaxed elegance over rigid structure. Slightly crumpled fedora hats completed several looks, reinforcing the sense of effortless refinement that has long defined the label.
While Giorgio Armani himself was known for avoiding theatrical finales, this show concluded with a full runway walk-through. The atmosphere in the room felt quietly celebratory rather than overtly emotional. Among those watching from the front row were Ricky Martin and Hudson Williams, with Martin visibly engaged, filming parts of the presentation on his phone as the models made their final pass.
Industry reactions pointed to a collection that respected the past while gently opening the door to what lies ahead. Alex Badia, fashion and style director at WWD, described the mood as more energetic than usual, noting a discernible sense of joy running through the clothes. “It is not a new beginning,” he said, “but you can sense something new is happening.”
Carlo Capasa, head of the Milan Fashion Chamber, echoed this sentiment, calling the collection “very modern” and praising its fidelity to Armani’s spirit. “I found the true essence of Armani,” he said after the show.
As the applause filled the venue, Dell’Orco stepped out for his bow. In contrast to Armani’s famously understated uniform of dark T-shirts and blazers, Dell’Orco appeared in a double-breasted suit without a tie — a subtle visual cue that continuity and change can coexist. The moment felt less like a handover and more like a steady continuation, guided by someone who has helped shape the house for over four decades.
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