Designer Nupur Kanoi is known her modern interpretations of traditional techniques like shibori and bandhini. Her latest launch marks an exciting new chapter, the unveiling of her Luxury Prêt Collection, Afters. It is a striking departure from her past aesthetic yet she has stayed true to her ethos.
The star is the exclusive gold stripe banarasi, a modern reinterpretation of the vintage weave, handwoven especially for this collection. Nupur talks to us about the bold new chapter in her life:
What inspired this striking reinvention of your design language?
I think stepping into my mid-40s changed the way I perceived my own clothes. This time, it was more about whether I would wear each and every piece from my collection, or, more importantly, who I was designing for. When you are younger, you try to please everyone; this collection was more about pleasing myself.
Tell us about traditional gold stripe banarasi weave in this collection?
The idea was to create a modern heirloom. The gold stripe banarasi has been exclusively hand-woven for this collection with a deliberate sculptural fall. It was about achieving those soft structures when pleating or draping the fabric in different grains. So, we simply reworked our classic silhouettes in this banarasi to create a new and fresh identity.
The collection features sculptural trench jackets and pre-draped saris—how do you balance innovation with wearability?
The balance comes with years of patience and a passion for constantly reinventing yourself. I’d get completely bored if I had a set formula for things.
Can you talk about the choice of colours and the mood of the collection?
I created this line after I lost my first pet cat, Karma, which was a huge setback as a first-time pet parent. The colours used in the collection, and the look and feel, are a reflection of his fearless and gangster personality. It’s bold, gold, and unapologetically feminine.
The use of macro flora and fauna motifs feels very impactful. What is the story or symbolism behind these motifs?
I love nature and constantly surround myself with it, be it at home or in my travels. Green is a very important part of my life. The last time I worked with gold was back in 2014, so bringing it back meant it had to make a bold comeback.
Your label is known for seamlessly blending contemporary aesthetics with artisanal craftsmanship. How has your creative vision evolved over time?
It evolves with every collection in some way. You learn to keep the key ingredients intact while throwing in some new elements with each new experiment. I think with experience comes the knowledge of knowing when to stop and learning that less is more. I seriously enjoy this excruciating process on a daily basis.
What new territories or techniques are you excited to explore next?
The possibilities are endless when you are Indian at heart, rooted in culture, with a rebellious streak. There is a little bit of India in whatever we create, be it experimenting with different textiles, eras of fashion that resonate with our aesthetic, and embroideries from across the globe.
Price on request. Available online.
—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com
@ManuVipin