Actor Ushasi Ray as a modern bride in this purple BenarasiIf any fabric has a legacy of centuries with its weaving techniques finding a mention in the Jatakas and Vedas, it has to be the exquisite Benarasi weave. Inherent to Uttar Pradesh’s Varanasi, these exquisite weaves with intricate threadwork and expensive gold and silver brocade work is known as Putambar Vastra or Hiranya Vastra in Mahabharat and Ramayan.
For centuries, it is has been considered to be an auspicious drape for a bride to adorn. Since the rule of the Mughals, especially under Akbar’s reign, the Benarasi weaves have received steady royal patronage and evolved in styles further during the British period. For ages, a bright red Benarasi sari is an integral part of any Bengali bride’s trousseau.
Keeping that in mind, several homegrown city labels have recently come up with unique styles in Benarasi saris that stand out in the deluge of varieties available in every retail store of repute. US-based Mitan Ghosh is surely one such designer whose works have garnered much acclaim and attention.
Known for her elegant curation of intricate weaves in festive colours, this National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) Chennai graduate has come up with yet another stunning array of Benarasis to light up the monsoon weddings. We wasted no time to get an exclusive peek into the range with a special photoshoot with the gorgeous actress Ushasi Ray. All Bengali brides can now take a cue from the same and make your wedding affair a lit one. Here’s Mitan sharing the details of her new collection. Excerpts from our chat:
Tell us about your new collection of wedding Benarasis.
The new collection has been curated keeping in mind the modern, young brides who want to have fun and look stylish at their weddings. The range has wide options in vivid shades of classic red, purples, bright hues of blues and soothing emerald greens. All of this are pure handwoven heirloom silk saris with a focus on weaves. For example, a plain body is complemented intricate borders. This time, I have made use of a lot of basket weaves, junglas, and leheriya, to name a few.
How different is the curation this time than your last collections?
This time, the prime focus is on modern brides, brides who are rooted in tradition yet have a knack to experiment with designs. The ones who can effortlessly blend tradition and modernity.
Tell us how has the journey of Benarasi as a wedding trousseau evolved over the years?
The journey of a Benarasi sari as a wedding trousseau will always remain classically unchanged. It’s classic, vintage and it will forever be the first choice of brides all over the world. It’s an artwork that has managed to remain true to its roots despite the ever-changing trends.
Do you see Benarasi saris becoming a choice of wedding attire for the non-Bengalis too?
Yes. Benarasi saris have become a popular choice of wedding attire for people beyond the Bengali community. Their rich texture, intricate designs, and traditional appeal make them a favoured option for brides across various cultures in India and even internationally. The elegance and craftsmanship of Benarasi saris have transcended regional boundaries, making them a cherished choice for weddings and other significant occasions.
What’s trending when it comes to wedding wear this monsoon?
All things light and comfortable will be in. Monsoon weddings in our country can sometimes get tricky hence the stress is on comfort, a lightweight Benarasi sari in colours ranging from red to blue to purple, is an excellent choice, since all of them make up for a beautiful monsoon bride.
For winter wedding this year, what will be trending?
For winter weddings, heavier silk Benarasi saris like a katan Benarasi will trend, however, a Benarasi sari is a classic, it’s an heirloom piece that you pass on to the coming generations. So, in that sense, everything about it will always be timeless.
What are the monsoon and winter wedding wardrobe must-haves?
For monsoons, it would be lightweight katan saris with minimalistic weaves and blouses with a light touch of embroidery. For winter weddings, heavy jungla saris or hazaar butedaar katan silks with velvet blouses and heavy embroidery work will be great choices. Layering with double dupattas is a great idea for added warmth during winter.
Tell us how differently can modern brides style their Benarasis?
Modern brides can style their Benarasi saris by pairing them with contemporary blouse designs, such as velvet blouses with intricate embroidery, for a luxurious touch. Statement jewellery like oversized earrings and layered necklaces can enhance the bridal look. Experimenting with moder n hairstyles and makeup, such as soft curls or sleek buns, adds a balanced elegance. For winter weddings, layering with double dupattas in complementary colours offers both warmth and a regal appearance. Fusion styling, like mixing traditional saris with Western cut Benarasi long jackets, and choosing stylish, comfortable footwear can give a unique and contemporary twist to the classic Benarasi sari.
How do you see the art of Benarasi weaving and designs evolving over the years?
This art has evolved significantly, blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary aesthetics. Modern weavers are experimenting with newer patterns, lighter fabrics, and innovative colour combinations while preserving the intricate detailing that defines Benarasi saris. Also, there’s a growing emphasis on sustainable and ethically sourced materials, reflecting a global shift towards conscious fashion. As a result, Benarasi saris continue to remain relevant and cherished across generations.
What inspires you as a designer?
I draw inspiration from the rich tapestry of my childhood, vivid memories of historical places I visited, and the natural beauty that surrounded me. The elegant saris worn by my mother and aunts, each telling its own story, deeply influence my designs. By blending these nostalgic elements with contemporary trends, I craft creations that are both fresh and timeless, honouring the past while embracing the present.
Model: Ushasi Ray Pictures: Upahar Biswas / Makeup: Abhijith Chanda / Hair: Abhijit Das / Styling: Soumya Nandy / Jewellery: A Sirkar & Co. Jewellers and Earthaments / Location: Poach Kitchen