Rajesh Pratap Singh on tailoring, geopolitics and menswear now 
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Rajesh Pratap Singh’s latest collection is based on the current geopolitics of the world

At FDCI India Men’s Weekend, Rajesh Pratap Singh presented a menswear line shaped by contrasts in structure and fluidity

Sharmistha Ghosal

Couturier Rajesh Pratap Singh’s artisanal label is feted for its strong attachment to Indian roots and textile innovation. His latest menswear edit, The Thin Red Line, showcased at the FDCI India Men’s Weekend in Jaipur, revolves around the current geopolitics of the world. The range explores contrasts in matte and shine, structure and drape, rigidity and fluidity. The silhouettes play with exaggerated shoulders balanced against softer, almost draped constructions. “There is a sense of structure, almost like armour in parts, yet it is countered by movement and ease. It’s about opposites co-existing,” explains Rajesh as he takes us through the edit.

What was the idea behind the collection?

The idea stemmed from a simple observation that sometimes appearances seem to matter more than real-world problems or real solutions. The suit, as a symbol of power and authority, became central to that thought. We don’t believe in drastic shifts. Ours is an ongoing experiment. The evolution is subtle, often in construction, proportion, or technique rather than in loud visual changes. Recently, there has been a stronger exploration of structure, which is almost armour-like, but it remains within our larger language.

Rajesh Pratap Singh on instinctive design, textile innovation and the essentials of modern menswear

Monochrome is the language of this collection. Could you take us through how you executed the colour palette and silhouettes?

The process is largely subconscious. We don’t overplan. We rely on flow and instinct. White has always been foundational to our work; it is the starting point. Black stands as its absolute opposite. Those two are constants. Everything else enters later, organically. The silhouettes follow the same instinctive rhythm of structure meeting drape and discipline meeting ease.

What are the plans for your label?

We’re focused on developing new textiles. By summer 2026, we hope to introduce fabrics that are exceptionally lightweight, almost weightless. Breathable, fluid, and understated—that is where our attention is.

The couturier discusses his latest menswear edit, The Thin Red Line, shown at FDCI India Men’s Weekend in Jaipur

According to you, what are the men’s wardrobe must-haves for 2026?

You have to get your basics right. A perfect bandhgala. A jacket that truly fits and works across occasions.

What inspires your designs?

Life. Observations, contradictions, people, silence, chaos — everything around us.

Tell us about your other upcoming collections.

There will be continued experimentation not only in clothing but possibly in product and lifestyle extensions. The language remains consistent. The medium may expand.

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