Known for his sartorial designs that have a modern touch while keeping the traditional elements intact, Santanu Guha Thakurta has carved a niche for himself in Kolkata and beyond. His 35-year-old eponymous label and his prêt brand Kolkatanama have kept Bengali art and cultural traditions alive through nuanced designs on heritage fabrics, be it saris or kurtas for men.
For the upcoming Poila Baisakh (Bengali New Year), Santanu has chosen a design narrative that takes his experiments with traditional weaves to another level. He has infused the range with the richness of indigenous craft, melding it with diverse contemporary variations, recreating a traditional renaissance.
“I like to explore the boundaries between the craft and technology to unite the traditional world with the contemporary, infusing a nature-friendly way of expressing my creative spirit. I have been working with traditional weaves and indigenous representations of heritage and traditional art forms in different forms of drapes and attire. My designs have always manifested pure and raw art forms to keep our traditional weaves relevant and close to the new-age patrons,” says Santanu.
To hold the interest of the Gen Z audiences, Santanu loves splattering his creations with traditional props, blending them seamlessly with modern aesthetics. To keep the creations affordable without compromising in quality, Santanu makes good use of recycling, organic materials, and colours.
“My aim has always been to make high fashion affordable and reach out to a greater mass of fashion-conscious people. Hence, innovation and thoughtful inclusion of sustainable ways of production are an integral part of my creative process,” he explains.
Santanu takes us through his two latest collections, Nabya Parampara and Akshar O Aitijhya, and unveils the same with an exclusive shoot for Indulge. Excerpts from the chat:
Tell us in detail about your new collections.
Both my new collections celebrate the timeless elegance of Bengali heritage while presenting it through a contemporary design language.
The colour palette revolves around ivory, sindoori red, antique gold, deep maroon, indigo, and muted turmeric tones, with occasional accents of emerald and dusty rose. These shades are deeply rooted in Bengali culture yet styled in a way that appeals to the modern bride and festive wearer. In terms of fabrics, I have worked extensively with pure Benarasi silk, tussar silk, organza, chanderi, and fine handwoven cotton silks. The silhouettes range from structured drapes and layered saris to contemporary blouses, long jackets, and fluid anarkali-inspired ensembles. Textures play an important role in the collection, and I have combined traditional weaving with subtle layering, creating depth without overpowering the garments.
What’s the idea behind the collections?
The idea behind Nabya Parampara and Akshar o Aitijhya is to reinterpret tradition for today’s generation. Over my 35 years of designing, I have always believed that heritage should evolve with time. This collection is inspired by Bengal’s cultural richness, its rituals, textiles, architecture, and artistry. The aim is to preserve the authenticity of traditional craftsmanship while presenting it in silhouettes that resonate with the modern generation.
How differently have you designed the Benarasis?
Benarasi saris are an integral part of Bengali bridal culture, so I wanted to treat them with both respect and innovation. In this collection, the Benarasis feature lighter weaves, contemporary borders, and unexpected colour combinations. I have experimented with minimal zari work, geometric motifs, and softer drapes, making them more versatile for modern weddings. The blouses paired with these saris also introduce structured cuts, cape details, and layered styling, which give the classic Benarasi weave a fresh perspective.
How have textures and embroideries been employed in this collection?
The embroideries in this collection are inspired by traditional Bengali craft techniques including zardozi, resham work, subtle zari embroidery, and hand-threaded detailing. Rather than heavy embellishment, the focus is on refined craftsmanship and layered textures. The embroidery complements the fabric rather than dominating it, creating an elegant and timeless aesthetic.
What inspires your designs?
My biggest inspiration has always been Bengal itself — its heritage, its festivals, its art, and its people. From old North Kolkata architecture to classical music, traditional rituals and vintage textiles, every aspect of our culture influences my work. My design philosophy has always been about honouring tradition while allowing it to evolve with time.
This summer, what fashion is working in wedding scenes?
Summer weddings are becoming more minimal, breathable, and elegant. Brides and wedding guests are moving towards lighter fabrics, softer colour palettes, and comfortable silhouettes. Flowing saris, organza drapes, pastel lehengas, and lightweight Benarasis are particularly popular this season. The emphasis is on effortless grace rather than excessive ornamentation.
What are the wedding and summer occasion wardrobe must-haves?
For summer weddings, a few essentials would be a lightweight Benarasi sari, a soft organza or chanderi festive sari, a contemporary silk kurta set, and a versatile embroidered jacket that can elevate simple outfits. These pieces allow one to stay elegant while remaining comfortable during warm-weather celebrations.
What are some tips for the summer brides?
My advice to summer brides is to prioritise comfort without compromising elegance. Choose lighter fabrics like organza, silk blends or soft Benarasi weaves, keep the embroidery balanced, and opt for breathable silhouettes. Minimal layering and well-chosen jewellery can create a beautiful bridal look without making the outfit too heavy.
What are the ethnic silhouettes that are trending this year?
This year, we are seeing a return to classic Indian silhouettes with contemporary styling. Some popular styles include draped saris with structured blouses, layered anarkalis, cape-style blouses and jackets, long kurta sets with wide palazzos and pre-draped festive saris. These silhouettes combine comfort with elegance, which modern clients appreciate.
What colours can one explore this summer apart from pastels?
While pastels remain popular, people can also explore ivory with gold, deep coral, turmeric yellow, vermilion red, emerald green, and indigo tones. These colours carry a strong cultural identity while still feeling vibrant and refreshing for summer occasions.
What are your plans for your labels?
Moving forward, I want the label to continue celebrating Bengali craftsmanship and heritage textiles on a larger platform. We are planning new collaborations, curated bridal collections, and a stronger presence in both national and international markets. I want to keep showcasing the richness of Bengal through fashion.
Tell us about your other upcoming collections.
I am currently working on a festive collection inspired by Bengal’s traditional festivals and rituals. Alongside that, there is a bridal couture line in development, which will further explore heritage textiles with contemporary design elements. The idea is always the same — to keep tradition alive while presenting it in a way that feels relevant to the modern generation.