There were many firsts that we witnessed at feted designer Payal Pratap’s collection showcase at LFWxFDCI and it indeed stood out for more reasons than one. It was the first time that Payal showcased in the Mumbai season of LFW. It was for the first time that Payal experimented and worked with denim. It was for the first time that Payal brought out an impeccable menswear range. The whole collection is incredibly vibrant, wearable, and chic in terms of silhouettes and colour-coding and compels the viewer to own it. The collection was intelligently accessorised with calf-length contrast socks in reds, olives, and cerulean blues with beautiful closed shoes, and we loved how some models trotted down the ramp wearing quirky oversized glasses to match the looks. The best part about the range is that each piece is wearable, can be mixed and matched, and is seasonless in its appeal. Payal takes us through the collection, her debut menswear range, and shares her plans for the label.
Tell us in detail about your new collection.
Memories Pressed in Time marks our first exploration of denim, along with the introduction of menswear for the label. Developed in collaboration with R|Elan, the collection works with denim created from recycled PET bottles, bringing a conscious dimension to the material. Rooted in botanicals and the life of flora and fauna, these ideas are translated onto indigo through cyanotype prints, alongside tonal embroidery, block printing, patchwork, and our signature cross-stitch. The palette stays close to denim in its many moods—deep indigos, washed blues, and softened neutrals, with texture playing a central role through crochet, cutwork, appliqué, and distressed finishes. Silhouettes are relaxed and oversized, with jackets, skirts, shirts, and trousers designed for ease, movement, and layering. The focus is on creating pieces that feel lived-in, tactile, and enduring.
What’s the idea behind the collection?
At its core, the collection is about memory, how moments are held, softened, and reshaped over time. I was drawn to the idea of botanicals being pressed into fabric, almost like fragments of nature preserved within denim. Denim itself becomes a metaphor here, a material that evolves with the wearer, carrying traces of time and experience. The collection explores this relationship between nature, memory, and material, where each piece feels like something gently lived in rather than newly made.
How different is this new collection than your previous ones?
This collection marks a significant shift in both material and approach. While the brand has always been rooted in craft and textiles, working with denim introduced a new sense of structure and durability to the design process.
How have you played with denim? And how have you made denim summer-friendly?
I’ve approached denim not just as a fabric, but as a surface to work on, something that can hold print, texture, and handwork.
This summer, what fashion is working in casual daywear trends?
There’s a noticeable shift towards ease and authenticity. People are gravitating towards clothing that feels comfortable, versatile and personal rather than overly styled. Relaxed silhouettes, textured fabrics and pieces that can be worn in multiple ways are becoming key. There’s also a renewed appreciation for craft, subtle details that make everyday clothing feel special.
What are the summer wardrobe must-haves?
A well-balanced summer wardrobe is really about ease and adaptability. Lightweight shirts, relaxed trousers, easy dresses, and versatile pieces for layering are essential. Denim, in softer or lighter forms, continues to be relevant because of its ability to be styled across occasions. Pieces that can transition from day to evening or travel well are increasingly important.
What inspires your designs?
A lot of my inspiration comes from memory, nature, and everyday observation. I’m drawn to quiet details, the way a fabric ages, the imprint of a leaf, or the rhythm of seasons. There is also a strong influence from craft traditions and textiles and how they can be reinterpreted in a contemporary way. For me, design is often about translating these subtle, lived experiences into something tangible.
What are the casual silhouettes that are trending this year?
Relaxed and slightly oversized silhouettes continue to dominate. There’s a move towards clothing that feels unstructured yet intentional, pieces that allow freedom of movement. Layering remains important, but in a more effortless way. The focus is less on rigid trends and more on silhouettes that feel adaptable and easy to live in.
What colours can one explore this summer apart from pastels?
Beyond pastels, there’s a clear shift this season towards more saturated, expressive colour. We’re seeing strong shades like electric or Klein blue, vibrant reds, sunshine yellow, and greens coming through on the runways, bringing a sense of energy and confidence to summer dressing. At the same time, there’s also a parallel move towards deeper, more grounded tones—earthy tones—olives, moss greens, chocolate browns, and muted neutrals, which feel more timeless and versatile. What’s interesting is this balance between bold and understated, from jewel tones like violet and scarlet to calm, refined shades like soft whites and greys. It allows people to approach colour in a way that feels both expressive and personal rather than seasonal.
What are your plans for the label?
The focus is on evolving the brand thoughtfully, exploring new materials, expanding categories like menswear, and continuing to deepen our engagement with craft. At the same time, it’s important to retain the essence of the label, creating pieces that feel personal, timeless and quietly distinctive.
What are your other upcoming collections?
We have just launched our SS26 collection, Wildflower Soul, that we are showcasing at Colombo Fashion Week in April. We also just presented our AW26/27 collection at Premiere Classe in Paris. Other than these, we will launch a linen high-summer collection, and a festive collection later this year.