Kolkata label Urmil’s latest spring-summer collection, Ceremony of the Unsaid, has a deeply personal story behind it. Co-founder designer Prerna Singh tells us that this collection explores dressing as a quiet, intentional act. Rooted in restraint and fluidity, the range reimagines everyday prêt through silhouettes that are felt rather than declared, where meaning reveals itself gradually through movement, texture, and form.
With this collection, Urmil continues to refine its design language, shifting focus from overt statement to subtle articulation. The silhouettes are shaped by fluid drapes, modern layering, and a quiet structure that allows the fabric to lead. At the heart of the line-up lies an exploration of rhythm and pause. Embroidery is sparse, while fringe and pleating introduce a gentle cadence that follows the body’s natural motion.
Each piece is designed to evolve with the wearer, revealing its details over time rather than at first glance. “With Ceremony of the Unsaid, we wanted to explore the idea of clothing as something instinctive, where expression doesn’t need to be loud to be powerful,” shares Ritika. The designer duo also shares some summer wedding tips on the side.
How personal is wedding couture becoming?
Prerna: Wedding couture today is becoming incredibly personal. Brides are moving away from the idea of a “standard bridal look” and instead thinking about how their personality, lifestyle and memories can be reflected in what they wear.
Wedding trends to watch out for this year?
Ritika: One thing I see becoming stronger is an interesting shift towards multi-functional bridal pieces. Brides want garments that can be styled differently across ceremonies.
And of course, veils are having a big moment again, but in more expressive and dramatic ways.
Summer wedding wardrobe must-haves?
Prerna: Sheer layers, breathable fabrics and silhouettes that allow movement are essential. I also think statement jackets are great additions as they allow brides to create multiple looks without needing completely new outfits. And most importantly, the outfit should feel comfortable and relatable enough to wear to celebrate.
Plan for your label this year?
This year is really about continuing to explore craftsmanship in newer ways. We are very interested in pushing the idea of textured couture further, experimenting with materials, layering techniques and handwork.