The first thing you notice at Roc-A-Coe is how light can become architecture. Karl Fernandes, operations head and beverage consultant, gestures toward the interplay of light and shadow as we settle in. “The space that you see is a 1930s modern interpretation of an Art Deco era,” he says. “Every architectural detail is made to create shadows.” It tracks. Carved stone surfaces of the omakase-style bar absorb light, while a statement wall, inspired by the cobblestones of the reworked KNK Road, becomes part of the interplay.
Karl walks us through Chennai’s lineage of drinking as swing jazz plays in the background. A port city shaped by arrivals and exchanges, Madras had taverns and punch houses as early as the late 18th century, with licensed establishments lining the Esplanade. “By then, drinking was already structured,” he explains. “And later, in the 1930s, what you see is what they called the art of polite drinking.” The cocktails here nod to this legacy, weaving in local ingredients like raw mango, narthangai, curry leaf and even filter coffee.
We begin with the Esplanade, first served. Tequila with raw mango brine and a touch of saline, and it hits in waves. Sharp, then soft, but surely lingers long. Next comes the Nine O’Clock Shandy, light and deceptively simple, followed by the Rosette, which quickly becomes our favourite. Gin, strawberry cordial, vermouth and sparkling water come together in something dangerously easy to drink. This is the one you order “just one more” of and suddenly it is midnight.
Midway, Karl places a book on the table, The Savoy Cocktail Book. The pages are filled with illustrations and typography that mirror the space around us. We flip through it, and it clicks. Even the name, Roe-A-Coe, draws from early cocktail literature, one of many details that reveal how deeply the space is committed to history.
The food begins to arrive soon after. We start with the Bread and Butter. Sourdough paired with spicy chickpea miso and gochujang butter. The umami hits first, then the spice sneaks in, and suddenly you are reaching for another piece before you have even finished chewing the last one.
Then comes the star of the night, the Charred carrots. Set on a pumpkin purée, layered with pickled pumpkin and dill, it balances sweet, sharp and smoky with precision. Though the food programme here is designed to just sit beside your glasses, this one feels like an exception to that objective.
Then the R.A.C butter garlic prawns arrive, and they do not disappoint. Cooked to precision, the prawns are tender and juicy, coated in butter, garlic and olives, with a lift from cilantro and lemon.
For mains, we try the Kimchi and green apple slaw sando. A schnitzel-like patty sits between layers of slaw, with the tang of kimchi cutting through the richness. We end with a Biscoff cheesecake. Creamy, indulgent, and exactly what you want at the close of a meal.
Meal for one: Rs 1,500. Open Tuesday to Sunday, from 5 pm to 11 pm. At Roc-A-Coe, Thousand Lights.
Email: shivani@newindianexpress.com
X: @ShivaniIllakiya
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