Biryani is passé. At least that’s what any gourmand worth their salt will tell you. We’ve overdone it — reinvented it, redefined it and today what passes off as good biryani is anyone’s guess — everyone has their own opinion, favourite haunt, preffered recipe and biases that will surprise even the most unaffected foodie agnostic. In a world like this, Ponram’s authentic Dindigul biryani comes to us like a saviour in disguse.
We’ve heard about them in the past, but were worried to go and try their fare as the last Dindigul biryani we tried was less than decent, to say the least. Once we entered the tastefully done restaurant in Koramangala, however, our hearts lifted and we were ready for the promised treat — or, at least, we hoped it would be one and take our word for it, we weren’t disappointed.
Starting off with a Mutton Biryani — that we should inform you dear reader, is a Lamb Biryani — and pairing it with some of the most delicious sides we’ve had in our lifetime — we took to the Mutton Chukka Varuval and Mutton Kola Urandai like we’d been starved of good food for days. It helps when the quality and flavour is so good. It comes as no surprise, as the meat is procured very carefully and the spices from in and around the Ponram Farm in Dindigul.
With spices and ingredients from Poombarai, Sirumalai, Thippampatti, Kannimanuthu, Thadiyankudisai, Thandikudi, Virakkal and Ayyampalayam, it’s no wonder that even the Naatu Kozhi Milagu Varuval was something we relished to the bone. The crowning glory was of course the simple Coriander Rasam that was served as a side, combined with white rice and of course, drunk in copious amounts out of a tumbler right through the amazing meal.
The owners were honest enough to tell us that the rice used is Gobindobhog, which was, we must admit, unique and that the curd, ghee and other dairy products including ice-creams are made from milk produced on their farm in Dindigul. The pachadi or raita that’s served is especially unique — slightly fermented to kill the pungency of the onion, it pairs beautifully with the biryani, as does their simple dalcha.
We, quite literally, licked our plates clean and went for seconds — something we haven’t done with biryani for years! But with each mouth and while we savoured each morsel of perfectly cooked rice — we were very sure that Ponram — if they maintain this quality — will go down in history as one of the best biryanis in the world. Yes, they’re that good!
Meal for two: INR 2,000 onwards. At Koramangala.
Email: romal@newindianexpress.com
X: @elromal