Perched high on the third floor of The Ritz-Carlton, Bengaluru, Izu is no ordinary Japanese restaurant. Known for its inventive Nikkei fusion, the venue exudes an atmosphere of understated elegance. The moment one steps in, there is an immediate sense of intimacy — the open bar lending vibrancy while the soft glow of warm lighting wraps the room in a gentle embrace. Walls adorned with ornamental cutlery, each piece more colourful than the last, provide bursts of artistry against the minimal décor. Candle-shaped lamps flicker like quiet sentinels, casting a golden sheen that makes Izu feel less like a restaurant and more like a stage set for something unforgettable.
That stage was, indeed, prepared for an extraordinary face-off. Two culinary heavyweights — Chef Arturo Castro Salazar of Heliconia at JW Marriott Goa and Chef Noel Adrias of The Ritz-Carlton, Bengaluru — went head-to-head in a five-course tasting menu designed to showcase the nuance of their craft. While Chef Arturo is celebrated for his bold Nikkei interpretations, chef Noel’s name is synonymous with refined Japanese gastronomy. What followed was less of a competition and more of a symphony, each round adding new notes to an exquisite culinary score.
The opening act began with a Garden Causa from chef Arturo and a delicate Tartare from chef Noel. The Causa arrived as a miniature tableau — baby vegetables, potato, yellow chilli, avocado and black truffle arranged with painterly precision. It looked like spring had been plated, its flavours vibrant yet harmonious. In contrast, chef Noel’s Tartare was a study in refinement: crisp rice crowned with silken fish, finished with cream that elevated the freshness to near perfection.
Round two brought salads with strikingly different personalities. Chef Arturo’s Mango Ceviche was lively and refreshing, the sweetness of mango and cherry tomato dancing alongside apple ponzu and avocado cream. A crunch of Peruvian toasted corn added texture, while a drizzle of syrup lent depth. Across the table, chef Noel’s Hamachi offered quiet sophistication — smoked Izu watermelon scattered with chia seeds, a subtle dish that invited contemplation rather than exuberance.
Vegetables took centre stage in round three. Chef Arturo’s Andrean Greens combined baby corn, white onion and asparagus with an eye-catching flourish of purple cauliflower, crisped and draped in creamy sauce. Wafers on the side lent a pleasing bite. Chef Noel countered with a Tamaki of black rice and pickled radish, a dish bold in flavour though leaving a lasting aftertaste that divided opinion.
The main course — round four — marked the crescendo. Chef Arturo’s Quinoa Risotto, enriched with mustard sauce and brightened with cherry tomato and avocado, was a revelation in balance and subtlety. Yet chef Noel’s Curried Tofu stole hearts: Panko-fried tofu with a crackling shell and molten centre, paired with silky udon noodles and a gently spiced curry sauce. Bread, noodles and sauce together created the evening’s most memorable mouthful.
Desserts, the fifth and final round, were no less than a duel of indulgence. Chef Arturo’s signature Tres Leches — airy sponge steeped in three milks, crowned with a passionfruit sorbet and caramel wafer — was a perfect marriage of lightness and decadence. Meanwhile, chef Noel’s Chocolate Damascus, with its velvety chocolate cream and gari-poached pears, was darker, moodier and utterly luxurious.
By the end, no clear victor could be declared. Both chefs had poured artistry, technique and soul into their plates, leaving us in rapt admiration. The true winner, perhaps, was the diner — fortunate enough to savour an evening where Nikkei exuberance met Japanese finesse in flawless harmony.
Words: Abhijeet Kabad
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