If Kerala food had a mood board, it would be all about contrast: the sharpness of pepper against the creaminess of coconut, and the bite of beef roast alongside the sweetness of appam. And now, Anna Nagar has a new spot that packs all this nostalgia (and spice) onto one table. That Mallu Joint, which has been winning fans in the city for a while now, has opened doors here, and we went in with hungry curiosity.
The starters set the tone right away. Eraichi ularthiyadhu comes with a bite. Cooked down to tenderness in masala that clings, this portion is perfect for two to share and to mop up with appams or just as sides.
Koon kurumulagu is another early winner, button mushrooms fried in a pepper-spiced batter that cracks just enough before you hit the gooey centre. The turmeric plays spoilsport here and there, but the curry leaves and crunch carry it through.
We were pulled back in with the Inji puli chicken. Chicken wings with a glaze that has all the tangy-sweet notes of ginger and tamarind, sprinkled with sesame seeds. BBQ sauce, but make it Indian.
Karumuru cheera, spinach fried tempura-style with stem and all, is the one to order for kids who hate greens. Squeeze some lemon on top, and even the most reluctant spinach-eater will give in.
These seafood specials are where the kitchen flexes. The Kandhari chemmeen arrives in a creamy white sauce that surprises. The sweetness of prawn lands first, then kandhari chilli makes a neat, sneaky entry, balanced with garlic.
And the Thalassery mutton biriyani is pure comfort. The kaima rice soaks up well-balanced masala, layered with fried onions, cashews, and coriander. The mutton pieces were succulent, almost falling-apart tender.
The mains stick to tradition. Mutta roast hits harder than expected, acidic from chopped onions and tomatoes, curry leaves doing their thing, and just when you think it’s underwhelming, the heat creeps in at the back of your throat. Beef roast is a no-brainer, chewy in the right way, bold with masala, curry leaves, and tomato slices balancing out the fire.
But save space. Because dessert is the surprise finale. The Sugar nei appam with tender coconut ice cream does something playful. The sugar doesn’t caramelise, it crystallises over the appam. Tear off a piece, and the ghee oozes through. Pair it with the ice cream, and it becomes this almost-butter-on-toast situation. Could it have been presented better? Probably. But that would rob you of the different ways you can enjoy it, depending on what your whim asks of you.
Meal for one: 1,200++. From 12 pm to 11 pm. At That Mallu Joint, Anna Nagar.