Much like the humble crisp it is named after, Poppadum the restaurant arrives quietly and then reveals itself to be considerably more interesting than you first expected. Abbas Shahzad, the founder, puts it simply: the name is not about what a poppadum is, but about what it makes you feel. Comfort with a hint of the unexpected. We headed to the diner to see if the food lived up to that promise. It very much did.
We opened with the cheerful and spicy Kokum spritzer, and the Smoked chaas, which arrived with a gentle smokiness that made it feel more considered than the average drink order. Both were good company throughout.
Over to the small plates. The Chilled tomato choka arrived pickled and bright, the pappad alongside adding a welcome crunch that elevated the dish considerably. Meanwhile, the Khaman chaat was addictive from the first bite, a burst of wet and dry textures and bold flavours that we did not want to stop eating.
The Burrata masala papad was a proper talking point. Break the pappad, scoop it through the smoked pumpkin puree and burrata, and the whole thing comes together in a rich, satisfying mouthful. The Thattai tostada offered a playful sweet-spice combination of pineapple, honey, and chilli that worked better than it had any right to. The Millet and grain salad felt like a clever spin on curd rice, familiar in spirit but dressed up with lemon pickle dressing and whipped yoghurt.
The Railway beetroot cutlet nodded affectionately to its railway canteen inspiration, crumb-fried and served with a red chilli peanut sauce that we scraped clean. Inspired by Abbas’s Sindhi mother-in-law, the generous bowl of My MIL’s daal pakwaan was comforting and it felt like something a good cook had been making for years. The Elaneer pakoda was a genuine surprise, crispy coconut tempura with a tamarind and curry leaf ketchup that was beautifully executed. We were trying this variety of pakoda for the first time.
The Naga chilli mushroom arrived with real heat and a smoky naga chilli oil that lingered pleasantly.
From the large plates, the gently spiced Smoked masoor pulao, the flaky and indulgent Scallion parmesan chur chur parotta, and the rich and creamy Malai kofta were the standouts.
Dessert brought the Falooda baraf gola, pure nostalgia in a glass, and the Nichani’s filter coffee pudding, which carried just the right amount of coffee flavour without overwhelming the palate. Both were a fine way to end a meal full of happy surprises.
Meal for two: INR 2,000. Tuesday to Sunday. 7 pm to 11 pm. Open for lunch from May 5: 12 pm to 3 pm. At Poppadum, Kilpauk, Chennai.
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