‘Welcome to Telugu Medium Kitchen’ reads a black chalk board at the entrance of Hyderabad’s latest South Indian eatery, even as we spot a big neem tree in its outdoor space. Exposed brick walls, earthy colours, terracotta grills covering the air conditioners indoors and a general lived-in quality of the eatery transport us straight to the 90s.
We take a tour of the 300-seater two-floor restaurant that features indoor and outdoor seating on both levels. The rustic space features shallow domes on the ceiling, which are specially crafted by a group of artisans from Haryana. “We’ve noticed that successful Telugu folk around the world still wear studying in a Telugu medium school as a badge of honour, and hence the name,” says Malvika Rao, Co-Founder of Telugu Medium Kitchen speaking about the idea behind the restaurant. As she explains, we notice the dark wood seating that’s typical to staff rooms in schools, upholstered with Ikat fabrics, a handloom local to Telangana.
We take a seat by the indoor space’s main attraction — a pool of water designed to resemble the courtyard spaces of old homes in South India. As water gushes into the pool (or thotti as traditional water storages are called in Telugu), a refreshing Aam Panna is brought in. We sip on the tangy drink, and prep ourselves for the delicacies to follow. After a satisfyingly spicy hit from the Pottelu Paya Shorba, we try the Mirapakaya Cheese Bajji, a fusion of cheese poppers with the popular Telugu snack — Mirapakaya Bajji made with chilies. Next comes a unique appetiser — Haleem Cutlets with Haleem coated in breadcrumbs and pan-fried to a crisp. The standout dish among the appetisers is the Nellore Chicken, made with a sweetspicy masala of caramelised onions and other spices, tossed in with succulent bites of chicken. The dish would go well with both rice based mains and on its own. Like the appetisers, the mains features dishes from the three major regions of the Telugu states — Telangana, Andhra and Rayalaseema, where each of the founders of Telugu Medium Kitchen hail from. We also spot some innovative ones inspired by the Nizami cuisine and a host of Chinese favourites to cater to families.
We try the Nalli Gosht Biryani first, and are floored by the succulent meat that fell off the bone. With a generous amount of ghee, the flavourful biryani is made using Andhra-style spices. For the vegetarians, we recommend the Gutti Vankaya Pulao, made with a rich eggplant based creamy gravy and aromatic rice. The Raju Gari Kodi Pulao is made with Chitti Muthyalu rice, a variety local to Andhra Pradesh. The tiny grains of rice resemble little pearls, and hence the name. The dish served in clay earthenware spells comfort onto our Telugu palates.
For dessert, we try the Sitaphal Rabri with bits of custard apple making the dish even more enjoyable. The Kashmiri Phirni too, is a standout, and excellent for those who prefer mildly sweetened desserts. With a plethora of South Indian restaurants mushrooming in the city, the food and aesthetics at Telugu Medium Kitchen manage to celebrate the true essence of the Telugu states.
Rs 2,800 for two.
At Jubilee Hills.
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