Chef Fathima Riyaz 
Hyderabad

Soulful flavours with pinch of subtle spices

Sheraton Hyderabad Hotel serves up the soulful flavours of Bhatkali cuisine, curated by Chef Fathima Riyaz, bringing to the city a rare coastal legacy

Express News Service

Fulfilling yet flavourful, steamed and subtle yet savoury — that is how complete The Bhatkali Table felt; a five-day celebration of the rare and endangered recipes of Karnataka’s Nawayath community, curated by Chef Fathima Riyaz at Sheraton Hyderabad Hotel.

The table was not just a spread of dishes but also an archive of history, carrying influences of multiple cultures yet deeply rooted in local traditions. Chef Fathima, a proud custodian of Bhatkali heritage, brings with her recipes passed down through generations at her ancestral Musba House in Bhatkal.

The evening began with the refreshing welcome drink, Thounsa Sherbet — a lemon-flavoured grated cucumber cooler that instantly awakened the palate. As we sipped, Chef Fathima introduced us to her community and its cuisine, saying, “Bhatkal comes under the Konkan region, the coastal belt of Karnataka. Our cuisine is deeply rooted in this geography — rice and coconut form the backbone of most dishes. We use very little oil and prefer steaming, which makes the food lighter and more comforting. That’s why I curated today’s menu — to give you comfort food that everyone can enjoy. Unlike cuisines where spice dominates, Bhatkali food is gentle in its flavour profile. “Our food is not overly spicy. It strikes a balance — it’s neither too fiery nor bland. That’s what makes it approachable to all palates. You won’t feel the food burning your throat or causing discomfort, but at the same time, it’s full of flavour. Traditionally, the cuisine leans more toward seafood and non-vegetarian dishes, but we make sure to create equally satisfying options for vegetarians,” she added.

The first appetizer to arrive was Kadange, Bhatkali spiced sweet potato — crisp on the outside yet soft within — coated in a paste of finely ground red chilies and shallow-fried on a tava. Enhanced with coconut milk, the dish was rich without being heavy, a theme that carried throughout the meal. Moving to the main course, the Bhatkali Veg Khichadi stood out as a comforting one-pot rice-and-lentil dish cooked with coconut milk — light yet packed with flavour. Alongside it came Khotay, rice and coconut dumplings wrapped in banana leaves, paired with Metha Sop — a dal made with fresh fenugreek leaves simmered in coconut milk and lentils. “One of the highlights on today’s menu was the Khichadi. Many guests enjoyed it, along with the Khotay. This preparation of rice and coconut ground together, steamed in banana leaves, is very traditional. On the vegetarian side, we served it with Methi Sop, and on the non-veg side with Mutton Sharwo,” said Chef Fathima.


Another creative preparation was Haldi Pana Nevri, where rice paste is spread on fresh turmeric leaves, filled with either a vegetable or chicken-coconut mixture, then folded and steamed. The subtle aroma of the turmeric leaves infused the dish, making it a delicate yet distinctive part of the meal. The course concluded with Semolina (vermicelli) biryani — light, aromatic, and filling without ever being heavy on the stomach.

For non-vegetarians, the spread extended further with Lonmeri Kukadi Maas, a Bhatkali chili-marinated chicken dish, Bhatkali Chicken Khichadi, Khotay paired with Mutton Sharwo, Haldi Pana Nevri with chicken filling, and Bhatkali Chicken Shayyabiryani. Each dish carried the essence of the coastal kitchen — steamed, subtly spiced, and touched with coconut in ways that added richness without excess.

The meal ended on a sweet, comforting note with Shayya Godaan, a rich coconut-and-condensed milk vermicelli pudding that reflected the warmth of homemade South Indian desserts. Creamy, fragrant, and deeply satisfying, it was the perfect close to a meal that felt both celebratory and rooted in tradition.

Overall, the dishes were flavourful yet subtle, satisfying yet light. As Chef Fathima summed it up with a smile: “That’s the essence of our cuisine — it’s soulful food, rooted in tradition, but always comforting to anyone who tries it.”


— Story by Vennapusala Ramya