In Frame: Sindoor Khela Image Credits: Unsplash
Culture

Your ultimate 'bonedi barir pujo' guide: Seven iconic Durga Puja celebrations in Kolkata

Arriving in the city during pujo feels like stepping into a world of vibrant tradition and artistic grandeur...

Dharitri Ganguly, Subhadrika Sen

Durga Pujas were first established and performed by several heritage families of Kolkata, a tradition and legacy that is kept alive even today. Arriving in the city during pujo feels like stepping into a world of vibrant tradition and artistic grandeur. The destination transforms into a sprawling gallery of intricate pandals, each a masterpiece reflecting the deep-rooted heritage of Bengal. Embarking on a journey of pandal hopping, particularly to some of Kolkata’s oldest and most revered pujas, offers a unique opportunity to immerse oneself in the rich cultural tapestry of the city, where every corner pulses with festive energy, history and devotion. Here's our guide to seven such pujas you must not miss!

Baishnab Das Mullick Bari, Malapara

In frame: Idol of the Baishnab Das Mullick bari

This 239-year-old puja sees the family welcoming the goddess as their daughter in her embodiment as shanti rupen. The Shibo-Durga idol is accompanied by Lakshmi, Saraswati and two companions, Jaya and Bijaya. The chaalchitra, a traditional backdrop, illustrates mythological scenes hand-drawn by family members. Founded by Baishnab Das Mullick, the Pujo features the unique ritual of dhuno porano, performed by the eldest female member and married women. Additionally, a dry bhog is offered throughout the celebrations.

Ghose Family Durga Puja, Manicktala

In frame: Idol of the Ghose Family Durga Puja

Running its 169th year in Kolkata, the puja started in the village of Paranchapur 570 years ago, from where it was relocated to its present address in Manicktala in 1856 by Babu Girish Chandra Ghose. The rituals involve the special Kalyani Puja. During the days of the festival, cultural programs are organised along with bhog that is shared with all.

Sabarna Roy Choudhury Durga Puja, Behala

In frame: The idol of Sabarna Roy Chowdhury Durga Puja

The foundation of the Barisha Durga Puja was laid in 1610 CE by Ray Laksmikanta Gangopadhyay Majumdar Choudhury and Bhagabati Debi, marking the first instance of worshipping goddess Durga alongside Lakshmi, Saraswati, Ganesha and Kartikeya within the same chaalchitra, a tradition that later became widespread. As the family expanded, eight additional Pujas were established. The rituals are meticulously followed according to Bidyapati’s Durgabhaktitarangini. A distinctive offering, known as mashabhaktaboli, is made on mahashtami and mahanavami to honour the presiding powers of trilok. Uniquely, this is the only Hindu family where the Tri-dhara Sangam—Shakta, Shaiva and Vaishnava traditions—are practised in unison.

Motilal Seal Thakurbari, Colootola

In frame: Rituals in front of the goddess at Motilal Seal Thakurbari

Initiated around 1828, this puja was established to provide the common people with an opportunity to visit and pray to the goddess, as other pujas were traditionally reserved for the upper classes and required special invitations. Today, the puja is managed by the Mullick family, descendants of Motilal Seal’s grandson’s nephews, as he passed away without an heir. The goddess is offered home-cooked dry bhog, five varieties of homemade sweets and an assortment of fruits. Furthermore, approximately 40 kilos of rice and other items are presented as naivedya. The prasad is served exclusively on banana leaves and traditional clay plates known as shora.

Chatu Babu Latu Babu Bari, Beadon Street

In frame: The idol of Chatu Babu Latu Babu bari

Over 250 years old, this pujo is now overseen by the eighth generation of the same family, who also continue the tradition of crafting the idols, a practice passed down through generations. Uniquely, goddess Durga is accompanied by Jaya and Bijaya, rather than Lakshmi and Saraswati. The puja is open to all and each morning, after offering the dry luchi-bonde bhog to the goddess, prasad is generously distributed to everyone in attendance.

Sovabazar Rajbari, Sovabazar

In frame: Idol of Sovabazar Rajbari

Raja Nabakrishna Deb, a close associate of Robert Clive, started this puja immediately after the Battle of Plassey in 1757. True to tradition, the lion on which the goddess is seated resembles a horse and she is adorned in the iconic ‘daaker saaj.’ While the ornaments were traditionally silver in hue, in the past 5-6 years they have been replaced with gold. Unlike most pujas where married women perform the rituals, here it is the men of the family who take on this role. Remarkably, this remains the only puja permitted to conduct the immersion ceremony by boat.

Girish Bhawan,Bhowanipore

In frame: Idol of Girish Bhawan

Founded by Hara Chandra Mukherjee, this puja is set to celebrate its 194th year. It features a family of dhulis who travel from a village near Diamond Harbour, while the idol was originally crafted by a maker and his sons. Recently, one of his students has taken on the responsibility of creating the idol. On dashami, the men join the women in performing a prodokkhin around the goddess, chanting the durga stotram. Their visarjan is truly distinctive, being one of the very few in Kolkata that occurs at home. In the post-COVID-19 era, a metal frame with wheels and brakes has been designed for the goddess, allowing the idol to be dismantled before it is immersed in an artificial pond at home.