Perched on the banks of the river Tawi and cradled by the Himalayas to the north and the northern plains to the south, Jammu, often referred to as the ‘City of Temples,’ is a treasure trove of history and culture. Named after its founder, Raja Jambulochan, who is believed to have ruled the area in the 9th century, this union territory will take you by surprise when you learn it sits at a low elevation of just 327 metres. And having experienced the place over a weekend getaway, here is a food-focused itinerary spanning across Jammu and its culturally rich culinary heritage.
As you drive towards this enchanting city, you are greeted with the breathtaking view of the famous Vaishnav Devi trekking route in Katra, snuggling the lush green Trikuta Mountain. This hill, known to be the second home of the divine goddess Durga, is also one of the twenty mountains surrounding Maha Meru (Mount Meru), the abode of Brahma. Having offered our prayers from afar, we drive along the Jammu–Srinagar National Highway, the northernmost segment of NH 44, which offers a scenic passage through a series of rugged ranges and tunnels, before leading you to this former princely state nestled in the Himalayas.
One of the first attractions that will welcome you to the destination is the newly inaugurated Jambu Zoo in Khanpur. This zoo, which opened its doors last summer, is home to exotic animals such as gharials, Himalayan black bears, goral and hog deer, alongside Asiatic lions, Bengal tigers, emus and various other types of deer and snakes. As exciting as sighting these animals was, they’re nothing to beat our eagerness to reach this charming town in the hills of Patnitop.
Kud is renowned for its sweet shops, where one can savour fresh local delicacies and cheese. As foodies who also happen to be history buffs, we stepped into the most popular sweet shop in town — House of Prem Sweets, which was founded by Pandit Lok Nath Khajuria in 1925. Here, we indulged in their paramparic Patisa, a crisp and flaky, ghee-soaked sweet handcrafted from besan. This traditional delicacy, associated with all Indian festivals and festivities in the region, can be best described as an amalgam of Mysore Pak and Son Papdi, though its deliciousness is incomparable to either.
This heritage shop sits amidst a bustling local market on the highway, where numerous food carts serve Kalari Kulcha, a beloved dish made with regional cheese called Kalari. This traditional ripened cheese, invented centuries ago by the nomadic Gujjar tribes to meet their nutritional needs during the summer months, is a cherished snack among the ethnic Dogras. Fried on the tawa and sandwiched between sliced kulcha with fresh onion rings, spices and local sauces, Kalari Kulcha is a delightful treat. Were we natives of this area, this would undoubtedly be our go-to chai-time snack.
On chai, we knew our getaway to Jammu would not be complete without trying the famous Kashmiri Kahwa Tea. Lucky for us, we were headed to a place where we were about to feast on celebrated dishes like Khatta Meat and a Sunday staple – Rajma Chawal besides the tea. Within no time we found ourselves lounging at Banana Leaf, a restaurant located in the lap of the beautiful Sanget Valley at Skyview by Empyrean.
We suggest you first sip on a piping hot cup of green tea infused with local saffron, cinnamon, cardamom and Kashmiri rose before indulging in the sapid Mutton Curry famously prepared among the Dogra community and Rajma Chawal. If you are wondering what’s so special about the latter then let us enlighten you — the Jammu rajma beans are said to be tastier than the Lal or chitra rajma as this variety leans more towards a slightly sweeter note. You can either call it a day or head out to explore Patnitop which is just a gondola ride away from this luxurious property.