Tales of twin city

Ahead of World Heritage Day on April 18, we uncover the vibrant cultural tapestry of Hyderabad with dynamic heritage enthusiasts who take us through the city’s bustling streets 
Image used for representational purpose
Image used for representational purpose

“We have a diversity of built and cultural heritage. To know it all is a natural and subconscious process. You see it, absorb it, own it and belong to it,” begins Anuradha Reddy, the convenor of the Hyderabad chapter of Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH). A priceless resource, a conduit for transmitting the rich historical legacy of this magnificent city to generations, Hyderabad heritage walks are a veritable doorway to unravelling the city’s enigmatic and effervescent tapestry of art. “Our memories are a treasure trove that we must not keep to ourselves. The act of moving through one’s environment on foot or on wheels instills a sense of familiarity and intimacy, and over time, it builds a library of memories that become a cherished part of one’s life. This connection to the surroundings is crucial when one is living in the same place for a prolonged period of time. Bonding with your surroundings and collecting memories that become an integral part of your life is a special experience that can only be achieved on the ground, whether by cycling or walking,” adds the keen history cognoscente. 

These walks, scheduled over the weekends, take participants on a journey through time, disentangling the captivating allure of Hyderabadi culture. From the magnificent Purani Haveli, the ancient Asaf Jahi mansion steeped in yore and nestled in the heart of Old City, to the glorious Arts College at Osmania University, or a forgotten iconic monument embodying cultural heritage — each walk unfurls a cache of discovery and wonder. Tracing a path towards the resplendent Golconda Fort, stunned at the contrasting hues and mammoth grandeur, every stride draws us closer to the pulsating core of Hyderabad. Dunking in the vivid narratives that rendered it the metropolis it is today, we see the Charminar — a lavish specimen of Qutb Shahi architectural finesse, with its soaring minarets and intricately chiselled archway. Then, the Laad and Begum Bazaar, an emporium of traditional handicrafts, textiles, and jewellery, all lend a voice to the weathered stonework, resonating with the decks of our shared past while fraying historical riddles. 

During its heyday, the Golconda Fort was known for its remarkable diamond trade, which attracted merchants from all corners of the world. Popular legends hold that it was constructed with a network of secret underground tunnels, allowing rulers to make a quick escape in times of peril. Furthermore, it is rumoured that the famous Kohinoor diamond was once housed within the fort’s walls! “Throughout its existence, it has passed through the hands of various rulers, including the Bahmani Sultanate and the Qutb Shahi dynasty, before ultimately succumbing to the Mughals in the 17th century. We document and preserve parts of the city’s heritage which have been disappearing owing to modern developments. The culture keeps evolving while also getting lost. I believe that these walks offer a chance to discover and rediscover the city’s hidden gems, unveiling its rich past and inspiring people to take pride in their cultural heritage,” says Navin Sigamany, a luminary photographer and impassioned heritage enthusiast, who stands at the helm of the Hyderabad Walking Company. Having a heart brimming with love for his enlightening city, he seeks to extend his passion to both the denizens and guests of Hyderabad. “We grasp the depth and diversity of the stories that animate every nook and cranny. Traversing eras and epochs, and witnessing the ebbs and flows of the city, I seek to forge a meaningful connection with the past, comprehend the intricacies of history, and nurture a profound appreciation for the artistry of the bygone era. Hyderabad’s historic landmarks are not just for tourists or visitors, but for future generations to learn about and cherish,” he shares. 

Running his Instagram page, That Hyderabadi Boy and guiding us through the unexplored parts of the city, Yunus Lasania halts at Mehboob Ali Street, an undiscovered and overlooked corner of Hyderabad’s bustling urban landscape. Its labyrinthine alleys and narrow streets, exude an air of mystery and intrigue, beckoning the curious and the adventurous to explore its hidden charms and treasures. Despite its undeniable allure, this gem of a street, named after the illustrious businessman and philanthropist Mehboob Ali, who was a stalwart of Hyderabad’s economy and political affairs during the early 20th century, may not have gained the same degree of prominence or recognition as some of the other more glitzy and flamboyant commercial districts.“It may not have the same prestige as other upscale or trendy shopping and dining destinations that cater to the whims and fancies of the well-heeled and the cosmopolitan. But I have learned to look at the city beyond its monuments as well. Monuments are only a part of it — we have a great functional history — the instrumental activities of daily livelihoods —  for example, we hop over to the sweet shops, and the Irani cafes. All of this shapes our identity as residents of Hyderabad,” he tells us.

E-mail: chokita@newindianexpress.com
Twitter: @PaulChokita

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