What we loved about the immersive displays at ‘Journeying Across The Himalayas’
Rivers, from time immemorial, have always been cradles of civilisations, being harbingers of unbridled change. Artist Tsering Motup Siddho, underscores the same through documentation of the evolution of the Ladakhi kitchen space, mostly along the Indus River's banks along the two border regions. "An invitation to gather at the hearth transcends language, and it's a space for nourishment, warmth and familial connection. The Ladakhi kitchen, especially, with its adaptability and fluid potential, transcends its role of being a mere space for cooking, turning into a hub which brings together influences, people moments, traditions, ceremonies and gestures, mirroring the seasonal rhythms of the land," says Motup.
If hyper-local indigenous art, craft, culture and traditions of the lesser explored regions from the lap of the Himalayas intrigue and amaze you, then you can't give the very unique and immersive Journeying Across The Himalayas exhibition a miss. We visited the impactful showcase, organised by Royal Enfield Social Mission, currently going on at Travancore Palace in New Delhi, and here are the highlights from the displays that you can't afford to miss if you are there.
Being mindful
On our way out, we were spellbound by the installations of life-size Golden Langurs looking into your eyes with their glass eyeballs and black faces created out of car tyres. They are a part of the sculpture series showcased by budding artist Manveer Singh aka "Plasticvalla", on social media, who has created quite a name for himself for creating art out of waste for the past eight years. We loved the majestic Snow Leopard that Manveer has made out of ghost net standing on a platform made out of Multi-Layered Plastic (MLP) and pet bottles, depicting shiny urban townships that we are creating at the cost of endangering them. The lifesize figure of the Himalayan brown bear with a red cut on its tummy will stir you with its appeal to spare them from the trauma of consuming plastic waste.
Of shapes and sounds
The Shape of the Wind is a Tree by FICA (Foundation for Indian Contemporary Art) is a beautiful section replete with immersive multi-disciplinary art by emerging artists from all parts of the Himalayan region. The section showcasing Motup's art is a must-see not only for the interpretation and depiction of the Ladakhi kitchen as the hub of the cultural melting pot but also for the way he has examined the work of metal artisans in Ladakh's Chilling village, producing cultural objects amidst pressures of tourism, mass production and a market-driven economy.
We were also impressed by the work of another young artist Milo Ankha, from Apatani community of Arunachal Pradesh, who captured the totems which are central cultural practices of her clan. Ankha observed and documented the rituals, shamans and totems animating the Myoko Festival in March that honour ancestral connections to the spiritual world.
The audio-visual experience we went through while watching Shyam Lal and Soujanyaa Boruah's Project Tension, is something we will remember for a long time. The installation visually renders the mental distress faced by the Gaddi shepherd community in Dhauladhar village due to urban inroads.
There are also immersive audio-visual experiences like one brought about by Shikargah Collective to showcase Bhand Pather, an indigenous Kashmiri folk theatre tradition that blends satire, social commentary and ritual to serve as a powerful storytelling tool to underscore crises of identity and social justice. What we experienced is a reimagination of Bhand Pather through a film with a narrative that is linked to the Mughal establishment of wildlife sanctuaries in Kashmir and the importance of endangered ecosystems.
From folk to fabric
Curated by Ikshit Pande alongside contributors such as Dr Monisha Ahmed, The WoolKnitters, Aagor and others, this section narrates myths, legends, and folktales, serving as living documents of the land and its people.
We were mesmerised by the tedious display of hyper-local indigenous weaves from various communities inhabiting the nine Himalayan regions and the folklore associated with each of the complex weaves.
Take this beautiful folklore, for example, where the origins of weaving in Ladakh have been traced back to a lama teaching the female demons, who turned into women, how to weave to prevent them from turning into demons again. Incredible though it sounds, the weaving practice among Ladakhi women has continued for generations around this story so that they stay away from evil ways. We were struck by the amazing Ladakhi woven wonder in monochromes where the weaves painstakingly display the harsh Ladakhi life through beautifully etched-out tents with yak horns guarding the entry to the tents, and pens for their cattle, sprouting up alongside the rivers and mountains crisscrossing the region.
In Himachal's Lahaul and Spiti, however, weaving is hailed as a visual art telling stories of people and their communities, connecting to the world around them. Since it's a complex and fragile work requiring dexterity and discipline, in ancient Buddhist belief, the weaver is akin to a problem solver. We also learnt about the very simple yet hardy Loi fabric, usually, gent's shawls in shades of earthy browns, snow whites, and muted greys made with handspun wool that's worn by the local shepherds. It has its origin in mountain-dwelling communities and is a mark of respect and affection and often gifted to a guest as a gesture of warmth.
We were also impressed by the exquisite Changra shawl designed by Jenny Housego and handcrafted and handspun by Kashmir Loom that celebrates the enduring connection between Ladakh and Kashmir. Drawing its name from the Changra pashmina goat and Changthang plateau, this piece reflects the interdependence of these regions through livestock rearing, fibre trade and weaving.
Ice hockey in Ladakh
Also, like us, on your way out from the section, don't miss the well-curated section showcasing 60 years of Ladakh's ice hockey history. Since India is almost unrecognised globally in winter sports, it becomes all the more pertinent how, for decades now, Ladakh has nurtured generations of strong ice hockey players despite the economic and infrastructural constraints, including the lack of an artificial ice rink for practice all through the year. We looked around at pictures of the renowned Ladakhi ice hockey players, the hardy skating shoes and the ice blades made from the tools of an army inventory box due to the lack of resources, and various old artefacts related to the sport apart from the trophies and accolades won over the years. The evolution of ice hockey has been curated by the Ladakh Arts and Media Organisation (LAMO).
We also loved The Great Himalayan Exploration section showcasing 12 UNESCO-defined Intangible Cultural Heritage practices in Ladakh including culinary traditions like preparing gurgur cha or butter tea metalworking in Chilling and weaving traditions, archery traditions in Kargil and Zanskar and the unique attires and cultural practices of the Brokpa people.
Things not to miss
We were also impressed by the Helmets for India display showcasing the work of 12 artists who have transformed helmets into unique artworks reflecting personal stories, gender journeys, and memories of bike rides.
And if you are interested in some meaningful interactions with emerging activists and artists from the Eastern Himalayan regions who are trying to protect their immediate environment head straight to the Green Hub zone. Look at the works of Chajo and Sara. Chajo, hailing from the Nocte tribe of Arunachals' Tirap district, has come up with photographic documentation of the biodiversity of Tirap along with Sara. There's also Theja Vikho from Nagaland who has turned his village's folklore into a graphic novel in English to preserve it for the next generation.
Post all the enrichment, we headed straight for some retail therapy to the shopping zone, where we were spoilt for choice with over 50 stalls displaying unique sustainable products right from clothes to beautiful local handmade dolls, and all at affordable prices.
The exhibition is on at Travancore Palace till December 15.
Tickets available online.