Darshan Shah talks about starting a dialogue on textiles from undivided Bengal through her recent exhibition in Kolkata
Darshan Shah

Darshan Shah talks about starting a dialogue on textiles from undivided Bengal through her recent exhibition in Kolkata

From an exhibition with rare artifacts, a symposium with learned dignitaries to a book launch, visitors and textile enthusiasts should not give it a miss
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Bringing together the lesser known textiles from India and Bangladesh is the exhibition ‘Textiles from Bengal: A Shared Legacy organised by Weaver’s Studio and Weaver’s Studio Resource Centre at Kolkata Centre for Creativity from January 30 – March 31, 2025. The exhibition not only comprises priceless artifacts but also a two-day symposium which further broadens the dialogue and the launch of an extensively researched book. We speak to Darshan Shah, founder, Weavers Studio and Project director and founder, Weaver’s Studio Resource Centre to know more about the exhibition.

Excerpts:

Q

How did the concept of working on textiles from India and Bangladesh germinate?

A

Over the past three decades, I have worked closely with Bangladesh, observing the shared language and techniques on both sides of the border. Despite the rich cultural and textile heritage of the Bengal Delta, these textiles have not received the attention they deserve, either locally or globally. This realization, coupled with the understanding that the region once clothed the world, motivated me to study the factors that impacted these textiles. During the COVID-19 pandemic, this idea began to take shape leading to the germination of this concept.

Detail of a Muslin Gown, Woven Cotton, Fabric Made in Bengal, Finished in France
Detail of a Muslin Gown, Woven Cotton, Fabric Made in Bengal, Finished in FrancePhoto: Weaver's Studio
Q

Why is it that textiles from undivided Bengal have not been given their due?

A

They faced significant challenges due to partition, migration, back migration; natural factors like rivers changing course and the silting of ports. Technological advancements like rise of the power looms. Additionally, government policies have not been conducive to preserving these textiles.

Skills such as spinning high-count cotton threads, hand block printing in Sreerampur, and hand batik in Shantiniketan have declined. Baluchari sarees, for instance, lost their original birthplace and were later revived in Bishnupur with a different design language. Other factors include demand-supply disparities, a lack of marketing equity, and the misrepresentation of Bengal textiles by external designers who fail to credit the original creators.

Q

What will the exhibition entail?

A

Exquisite handcrafted textiles and supporting objects such as maps, paintings, dyes, carpets, accessories, and films. Viewers will see commissioned textiles that highlight traditional skills still practiced today.

Q

Underrated textiles from India and Bangladesh that should be spoken about

A

First, the basic range of cotton sarees from Shantipur, Tangail, Phulia, and Dhanekhali. Second, the Satgaon quilt, which urgently needs revitalization through skill development and market exploration. Another point of reflection is the absence of a dedicated wedding saree tradition in Bengal. This gap highlights the need for innovation and attention in this area.

Haji Shawl, Embroidered Silk, c. 19th century, Dhaka, Bengal
Haji Shawl, Embroidered Silk, c. 19th century, Dhaka, BengalPhoto- Weavers Studio Resource Centre, Kolkata
Q

What is the message you want to give out?

A

I urge everyone to revisit their grandmother's and mother's cupboards to rediscover and appreciate the beauty of these wonderful textiles. Learn to value and wear them proudly. Be conscious of your choices when purchasing textiles and support handmade products. Encourage and patronize homegrown brands and production centres. Preserve old and rare textiles, share their stories and designs on social media. Our end goal is to document the oral histories behind them and create a repository of information to drive research and revival.

The exhibition will take place between January 30- March 31, 2025 at Kolkata Centre for Creativity

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