Fearsome masks and sacred steps: Inside a Tibetan cham dance

In the sandstone courtyard of Palpung Sherabling Monastery in Himachal Pradesh, the sound of beating drums and clashing cymbals echoed through the air as monks took their places, ready to perform the ancient cham dance. This centuries-old ritual, performed on the eve of the Tibetan New Year, known as Losar, invokes the wrathful deity Mahakala, whose terrifying presence is believed to remove obstacles and cleanse the monastery of negative forces.

The dancers emerged two at a time from behind a printed yellow curtain, each dressed in elaborate, colourful robes and fearsome masks. The masks, crafted to represent wrathful deities, mythical creatures and even skeletons, glinted in the winter sunlight. The courtyard, framed by the monastery’s stone walls, became their stage. The rhythmic stamping of feet and the dramatic whirl of fabric created a hypnotic spectacle.

Central to the performance is Mahakala, the powerful protector of the Dharma in Tibetan Buddhism. Towering above the dancers, the figure of Mahakala is depicted with a crown of skulls and a bowl of blood in one hand, while the other grasps a Vajra — a legendary weapon symbolising spiritual power.

The cham dance is no mere performance; it is a sacred ritual deeply embedded in Tibetan Buddhist culture. Each movement is imbued with meaning, intended to symbolically destroy evil spirits and impurities that may have accumulated over the past year. The monks, trained in the tradition since childhood, dance in perfect synchrony with the beat set by fellow monks playing ritual instruments — long horns, double-sided drums, and metal cymbals.

When the instruments paused, a momentary hush settled over the courtyard, broken only by the chirping of house sparrows. Dozens of these small birds nest in the eaves and crevices of the monastery buildings, a reminder that this place, though devoted to ritual and spirituality, is also a living, breathing home to hundreds of monks and countless creatures.

Palpung Sherabling Monastery itself has a history stretching back to the 18th century, when its parent monastery was founded in eastern Tibet. Today, the Indian branch, located near the town of Baijnath, is a major centre of the Karma Kagyu school of Tibetan Buddhism. The monks who live and train here come from diverse backgrounds — some from Tibetan families living in exile, others from Indian hill communities and nearby Himalayan villages.

At the heart of the courtyard stood a shrine-like structure, containing a large mask-like sculpture of Mahakala. This imposing face, crafted by the monks from barley flour mixed with butter, serves as a physical manifestation of the deity for the duration of the ritual. As the dance reached its climax, this sculpture was ceremoniously carried out of the courtyard and set alight in a final act of symbolic cleansing.

The faithful believe that the fire consumes all the negativity, impurities and obstacles that Mahakala has entrapped during the dance. By the time the flames die down, the monastery stands purified and ready to welcome the New Year.

The cham dance is both an artistic and spiritual expression, blending movement, music, costume and belief into a singular experience. Though deeply rooted in Tibetan Buddhist tradition, its resonance reaches beyond the monastery walls, attracting visitors and believers from across the region who come to witness the unique confluence of faith, folklore and performance.

In an era when ancient traditions are often at risk of being lost to time, ceremonies like this stand as living proof of their enduring power — a reminder that spirituality, when expressed through art and ritual, continues to hold meaning for both the faithful and the curious alike.