Iconic fashion designer Mary McFadden passes away aged 85

Mary McFadden, a legendary fashion designer known for blending ancient culture with modern fashion, passed away on Friday at her home in Southampton, NY. She was 85. Her brother, John McFadden, confirmed the cause of death as myeloma dysplasia.

McFadden drew inspiration from past civilisations, infusing symbols like the Chinese phoenix and Indonesian shadow puppets into her designs. Her signature creations, shimmering pleated dresses, were designed to flow like “liquid gold.” These garments, made from a special synthetic fabric she patented in 1975 called Marii, became her trademark, reminiscent of the pleats once crafted by Mariano Fortuny.

McFadden's designs captured the essence of ancient Greece, with dresses inspired by the caryatids of the Acropolis. Her models, often posed like statues for shoots at iconic locations like the New York Public Library, embodied her vision of timeless beauty. Famous figures such as Jacqueline Onassis favoured her gowns, solidifying her status among fashion elites.

Born on October 1, 1938, in Manhattan, McFadden grew up in a privileged household. Her father was a prominent cotton trader, and her maternal grandfather helped pioneer commercial radio. After boarding school, McFadden studied fashion at the Traphagen School, Columbia, and the Sorbonne. She broke into the industry as a public relations director for Christian Dior.

McFadden’s design career flourished after her 1964 marriage to De Beers executive Philip Harari, during her time in South Africa. There, she found inspiration in the markets, leading her to develop her signature exotic style. She became a fixture in high society and international fashion circles.

Though she closed her business in 2002, her legacy as a fashion innovator endures. A popular media organisation remembered her as a true icon, one whose designs transcended time. McFadden is survived by her brother, following the loss of her daughter Justine Harari in 2023.