Nita Ambani’s Chikankari saree revives a legacy linked to Noor Jahan’s influence

For a recent appearance, Nita Ambani wore a dreamy mauve Chikankari saree and paid homage to the rich Indian textiles and their skilled craftsmen. This saree was made by Swadesh India, which is the craft-based venture that Nita Ambani started in 2023.

Nita Ambani’s Chikankari saree celebrates a living craft tradition

Nita Ambani wore a vintage mauve chiffon saree with a full floral jaal embroidered on it. The saree itself was handmade by Anjani Kashyap, an embroiderer from Lucknow who took over one year to create it. The saree was created in the traditional method of do taar chikankari, with intricate jaali, murri, ghaas patti, and balda embroidery. It was worn in the traditional nivi drape style and was accessorised with a unique organza and lace blouse created by Manish Malhotra. The blouse was styled with pleats and ruffles to compliment the embroidery.

Accessories were chic yet subtle for the look. She wore diamond dangling earrings, diamond bangle, a statement ring, and also a watch. For makeup, Nita Ambani went for eyes outlined in kohl, well-defined lashes, pink lips, and a centre-parted bun decorated with purple roses and a bindi.

How the Chikankari artwork is connected to the Mughal era?

This particular embroidery on the saree has its origins in the city of Lucknow. Many historians credited the famous Mughal empress Noor Jahan with the popularity of Chikanakri. She was married to Emperor Jahangir and was also known for being an active patron of arts and crafts. The term ‘Chikankari’ comes from the Persian word, ‘Chikan’, which means ‘embroidery.’

Born as Mehr-un-Nissa, she became one of the most powerful women in the Mughal period. It is widely believed that Chikankari came into existence during the reign of Empress Noor Jahan. According to some historians the empress might have encouraged the use of embroidered cloth within her palace because of its elegance and beauty. As many artists from different parts of the world came to the Mughal Empire, their techniques of embroidery were combined with local ones, creating one of the most signature artworks of Lucknow.

Chikankari work is traditionally done using white and pastel colored threads on thin fabrics, and involves various methods like back, chain, and satin stitching. As time went by, some specific styles like jaali, murri, ghaas patti, and balda work became distinct features of the craft.

For more updates, join/follow our WhatsApp, Telegram and YouTube channels.