Asha Gautam’s eponymous label is a labour of love. As you walk into their cute store tucked away in Greater Kailash, Delhi, the first thing that catches your eye is the way the brilliant masterpieces they create are displayed. No gimmicky lighting, no OTT decorations — the focus is the garment and the hope is that you will notice the effort that has gone into each creation. What began as a vision in 1998, today, 25 years later is a testament to Asha Gautam’s keen eye for fashion and affinity towards Indian arts and crafts. Gautam Gupta, her son, joined her, after an education in NIFT and with him came a deep-rooted knowledge and love for the great Indian textiles and contemporary fashion. The mother-son duo brought to life beautiful modern silhouettes with a touch of Indian textiles and weaves and pushed the boundaries of existing fashion to include the arts and crafts from areas such a Paithan, Bhuj, Pochampally and Uppada. Using techniques like appliqué, rich embroideries like convent and french knots, nib painting, bandhani and chikankari; the brand also uses weaves from kota dori and real banarasi zari to further essay their new design story. After 24 years of travel and collaborations, the brand is currently associated with artisans from 7 states, 15 clusters, with more than 30 Indian crafts and we caught up with Gautam Gupta at their 25th Anniversary celebration to talk about the label, their brand new collection — Vrindavan — their future plans and lots more…
We see the label mixing handloom and textile styles from all across the country, something we don’t get to see in bridal trousseaux very often, for example, the inclusion of paithani... what is the idea behind this and what have your experiments been, so far?
Over a span exceeding two decades, our deep involvement with handlooms has entailed extensive journeys to various artisan clusters across the country. Our consistent aim has been to collaborate and co-create with skilled artisans, merging their traditional expertise with our vision and designs to explore a spectrum of diverse genres. Acknowledging the immense potential within the bridal market, the largest segment in the Indian fashion landscape, our dual focus has been on crafting distinctiveness while simultaneously offering increased opportunities to these artisans. Instead of merely expressing sympathy for weavers or glorifying weaves on Handloom Day, our philosophy revolves around empowering them through collaborative creation, ensuring the sustainability and preservation of their invaluable skills. A notable example of this dedication is our introduction of the paithani lehenga, which not only brought stability and uniqueness to the wedding wear industry but also served as a showcase for the artisans’ skills. Expanding beyond paithani, we delved into crafting lehengas from bandhani, patolas, kalamkari and banarasi, pairing them with various types of dupattas and embroidery to metamorphose each piece into a manifestation of couture, specifically handloom couture. Consider kalamkari as another illustration — traditionally hand-painted on silks and tussar, we employed innovative techniques such as appliqué to adapt it to organza and other woven fabrics, enhancing its allure with embroidery. This creative approach allowed us to seamlessly incorporate kalamkari into a diverse array of silhouettes. Modern brides, driven by a desire for diversity in their trousseau and a wish to look uniquely themselves, find these improvisations perfectly aligned with their aspirations.
Do tell us about your journey as a label and where do you see yourselves in the next five years?
The journey has been profoundly rewarding. When Asha, my mother, established the label, there were no predefined goals or business plans; rather, it was driven by a deep passion for crafts, particularly heirloom saris. Initially, it was demand-driven, with clients encouraging us to expand our offerings from saris to lehengas. It wasn’t until 2003 when I joined her that we began to approach the business more strategically, focusing on strengthening our philosophy. We soon realised that the true talent of our country resided in its interior regions. This realisation led us to visit various artisan clusters and engage in collaborations to co-create new fabrics over time. Our resources were limited and we needed to generate sufficient income to invest in specific clusters. Producing unique handwoven pieces like paithani, patolas, jamdanis and rangkats required substantial investments and time. Similarly, establishing an embroidery unit for rare embroideries such as knot and petit point involved extensive training and time, shaping Asha Gautam into what it is today. Lacking a mentor and possessing minimal industry experience meant that our learning primarily came from personal experiences, extensive travel to artisan clusters, interactions with artisans nationwide, discussions with senior professionals and colleagues; and extensive readings on fashion. Asha Gautam embodies a fundamental ethos for us. It’s a brand dedicated to the unwavering endorsement of Indian handmade crafts. Looking ahead, we aspire to venture into various lifestyle domains while upholding the same philosophy of responsibility, preservation and the revitalisation of Indian crafts, with the goal of crafting timeless products. As I survey the landscape, I see numerous segments, industries and demographics where Asha Gautam can make a deliberate and meaningful impact. Our vision includes the intention to replace a range of products in the lifestyle sector by designing them in eco-friendly and sustainable ways to create a more substantial and positive influence. In the next five years, we aspire to expand and establish stores in other cities, particularly Hyderabad and Mumbai, either through our own store or in collaboration with multi-designer stores. However, our focus remains steadfastly on ensuring that any growth aligns with our brand’s fundamental philosophy. In the immediate term, we are actively exploring new segments within the realm of handmade crafts. At Asha Gautam, we are devoted to the revival of additional weaving techniques. We are also exploring new avenues, including fusion fashion, luxury prêt and menswear, all of which will showcase our distinctive weaves and embroideries.
Take us through your latest collection? What inspired it, what makes it unique?
Our latest masterpiece, named Vrindavan, captures the lively essence of a city steeped in both divine history and human experiences. Throughout the conception of this collection, Asha Gupta, co-founder of the brand, fondly reminisces about her time immersed in the temples and along the ghats of Vrindavan, absorbing the profound essence of this sacred place. The unwavering devotion of the people to Radha-Krishna, their mutual adoration and timeless love served as the driving force for the brand to curate a collection that not only radiates fleeting beauty but also carries deep and meaningful significance. The collection draws inspiration from Vrindavan’s architecture, fauna and the individuals who contribute to its distinctive character. This bridal range stands as a testament to love, intricately adorned with techniques such as knot embroidery, dabka, kasab, Kashmiri ari, salma, kora, resham, Farsi jaal, zardosi, dori, sequins and pearls, among others. Bursting with vibrant hues like iconic bridal reds, pinks and peaches, this collection captures the harmonious love resonating through the streets and jungles of Vrindavan. The bridal collection not only showcases meticulous craftsmanship but also distinguishes itself by incorporating 12 to 15 different types of materials and 15 to 18 embroidery techniques — some, like knot embroidery, nearly forgotten by time but now revitalised in these contemporary pieces. Some were paired with woven dupattas such as bandhanis, adding a unique touch, while paithani lehengas were also designed for brides who appreciate intricate weaves. We collaborated closely with artisans who infused their passion into each creation and the collection mirrors this dedication, evident in the embroidery, where it took between 3,600 to 4,000 hours to craft a single bridal ensemble.
Even though you are based in Delhi, do you plan on catering to other bridal markets anytime soon? For example a South Indian Hindu or Christian wedding?
As we contemplate venturing into new markets, there is a possibility of introducing modifications in colors and styles. Nevertheless, our dedication to the fundamental ideology of our brand remains steadfast. We are open to customisation to accommodate the unique requirements of various weddings, including those with Christian or Bengali traditions. To illustrate, numerous South Indian brides favour our saris and often seek personalised, embellished blouses. In a similar vein, for a Punjabi bride, we crafted a bespoke kurta sharara, staying true to our distinctive aesthetics and ensuring that our designs resonate with a diverse range of cultural preferences.
What can we expect from you next? What are you currently working on?
We adhere to a deliberate strategy of unveiling only one collection annually, recognising that our meticulous process demands seven to eight months for its realisation. Our unwavering commitment lies in preserving the deliberate, handmade essence of our designs. Presently, we are deeply engrossed in the creation of our forthcoming bridal collection for 2024-25. Looking ahead, there are strategic initiatives to introduce a groom’s wear segment next year, addressing the growing demand from couples seeking coordinated attire for their special day. As we embark on this expansion, our objective is to imbue Asha Gautam with grandeur and contemporary silhouettes while steadfastly maintaining our vintage identity. The anticipation builds for our upcoming masterpiece collection of handcrafted saris for Asha Gautam in the upcoming year, currently in the throes of creation. Additionally, we are actively engaged in exploring initiatives related to circular designing, with further details to be shared once these plans come to fruition.
What do you see trending in 2024 especially in the bridal and couture market?
In the bridal and couture market, I’ve observed a growing trend towards versatility. Modern brides exude confidence in choosing outfits that resonate with their personal style, moving away from blindly adhering to traditional norms. An emerging expectation is that more brides will opt for handwoven saris or lehengas, deviating from the conventional choice of heavily embellished lehengas. Additionally, there’s a noticeable shift towards art-inspired collections, where brides prefer outfits that tell a meaningful story rather than merely being heavily embroidered. This trend reflects a desire for more depth and narrative in bridal attire, adding a unique and personal touch to each piece. Contemporary silhouettes and cuts are also gaining popularity, with features like cape-inspired blouses, dramatic sleeves, long jackets, deep necklines and the strategic use of sheer fabrics taking centre stage. These modern elements bring a fresh and dynamic dimension to bridal fashion, allowing brides to express their individuality while embracing the latest trends in the couture landscape. The evolving preferences in bridal wear underscore a shift towards personalised, story-driven, and contemporary choices in the ever-evolving world of bridal fashion.
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