Couturier Archana Kochhar, was appointed as the official Indian Fashion Designer for the 71st Miss World. This marked a significant moment as the competition returned to India after 28 years. While, India did not end up winning the coveted global pageant title, Archana’s creations for the whole entourage of contestants won praise from all across the globe. We caught up with the ace designer to find out more about the four special collections she created for the event and chat casually about all things fashion too! Excerpts from the interview.
Taking on an event like Miss World must have been quite the challenge. What did this entail for you?
It was quite a challenge to make 120 outfits for the contestants in a short period of time. We also worked carefully on making sure that the contestants of each continent are coordinated with each other. All hard work does pay off — it was great seeing the outfits on the incredible Miss World contestants.
Fashion has changed over the years, while some trends have stayed constant — how did you plan to represent these classic concepts and also bring in a contemporary flair?
In our four collections, we have tried to depict various aspects of Indian art and culture with embroidery while keeping the silhouettes indo-western with westernised blouse styles and the gown-sari style. The idea was to represent the best of Indian fashion to the world.
What beauty means has changed over the years. From body types to makeup styles to features we generally perceive as beautiful. Your opinion on this? Also, have you seen the perception of beauty changing in your career, so far?
Through my 25 years in the Indian fashion industry, I have witnessed the standard of beauty change for the better. As a society, we have become more inclusive of all body types and this change can be seen in the context of global fashion as well. During my 2019 New York Fashion Week show, I had one model in a wheelchair and one with a prosthetic arm grace the ramp. It was great to be part of this change and I look forward to taking this change ahead.
Could you tell us about the collections you created for the show?
We released four new collections — each for one of the continental groups of Miss World. The contestants from Asia-Oceania were dressed in a floral printed collection which was made in ahimsa silk, a non-violence silk made without killing the silk worm. The prints paid tribute to the indigenous flora and fauna of India while integrating geometric symbols from Mughal Architecture. The collection comprised of modern lehengas, stylistic anarkalis and draped sharara sets. The Miss World Contestants from Europe were dressed in a collection that paid homage to the timeless grace of Indian weaves and the different adaptations of these silhouettes. The collection used hand woven brocade weaves from Varanasi, handicraft mirror work embroidery from the Kutch district of Gujarat, hand loom jamdani fabric from Bengal and the tie-dye bandhani technique from Gujarat. With delicate pastel hues taking centre-stage, the contestants from Africa were dressed in hand embroidered lehengas and anarkali sets. The collection used chikankari embroidery from Lucknow and was embellished with kardana beads, sequins and stones. The collection’s shades drew attention to the diversity of the female form, in all shapes and sizes, worthy of being celebrated as they are. Bringing an element of Mumbai to the stage of Miss World, the contestants from the Americas and the Caribbean were dressed in Bollywood Bling. The collection used the Indian jewel colours of ruby, sapphire and emerald embellished with hand embroidered sequins and stone work that created an incredible shine on stage.
Indian fashion is now global! You stand in testament to it. What do you think has been our biggest contribution to the world of fashion?
India’s contribution to global fashion has been its diverse embroidery art. We have so many regional and tribal embroidery artist styles in India and it’s great to see these get a global footing.
And finally, one trend in fashion you’re happy to see around?
I am happy to see that people are wearing more comfortable footwear and I am happier that they’re saying good bye to high heels and uncomfortable footwear.
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