Prada eyes collaboration with Indian artisans after Kolhapuri sandal controversy

Italian luxury brand Prada is now considering a collaboration with Indian footwear artisans following a controversy over sandals showcased in its recent fashion show that bore a striking resemblance to traditional Indian Kolhapuri chappals.

Kolhapuri sandals, named after the town of Kolhapur in Maharashtra, are handmade using time-honoured techniques passed down over generations

Two weeks ago, Prada found itself at the centre of a social media storm after it unveiled a line of open-toe sandals at a Milan runway event. The designs, which closely mirrored 12th-century Indian footwear, drew criticism from artisans and cultural commentators for lacking proper attribution to their Indian roots.

Indian politicians, craftspeople, and trade bodies demanded recognition and credit for the iconic design as momentum around cultural appropriation grew.

What began as outrage quickly turned into opportunity: the scandal led to a surge in domestic sales of Kolhapuri sandals, as local artisans leveraged the global attention to promote their heritage craft.

In response to the backlash, Prada acknowledged that its new sandals were inspired by ancient Indian designs. On Friday, the brand confirmed it had held remote talks with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, which represents around 3,000 Kolhapuri artisans, to discuss potential future collaboration.

Lorenzo Bertelli, the son of Prada’s owners and head of corporate social responsibility, participated in the discussions. According to the chamber, Prada expressed interest in launching a limited-edition "Made in India" collection of Kolhapuri-inspired sandals, created in partnership with Indian artisans. The next step, Prada noted, will involve its supply chain team meeting with a range of local footwear manufacturers to explore working together.

While Prada does not currently operate any retail stores in India, the move signals a potential shift in strategy, especially as India’s luxury market is growing steadily.

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