UK-based fashion designer Ayush Kejriwal unveils his spring-summer collection

UK-based designer Ayush Kejriwal gives us glimpses of his new collection where he has played with traditional Benarasi saris, with contrasting, but cohesive prints
Models in Ayush Kejriwal saris
Models in Ayush Kejriwal saris

For UK-based Indian designer Ayush Kejriwal, who is renowned for his smartly designed traditional Indian fabrics and saris, with a hint of eccentricity, the whole concept of  what's trending and what's not is relative. "I don't believe in the whole concept of fast fashion or fashion trends. For me something that is beautiful today will still remain beautiful tomorrow, the day after and many days after that too", he says.

With summer on its way, we caught up with the couturier, who has no formal degree in fashion, to find out about the looks he has created for this season. He lets us take a peek into a few highlights of his collection for the summer of 2019.

<em>A hand painted pen kalamkari sari from the Umanga collection styled with Khubsurat jhumkas made in pure silver</em>
A hand painted pen kalamkari sari from the Umanga collection styled with Khubsurat jhumkas made in pure silver

Ayush is currently playing with traditional Benarasi saris with embellished borders in primary colours. "I have played with clashing prints and different embroidery techniques to create a cluttered look," he tells. For instance, a marori embroidered border has been touched with gotawork and sequins to create a rather unusual effect. The gold in the border has been contrasted with the silver zari of the Benarasi sari.

<em>An orange and gold Bengal jamdani finished with a threadwork and sequins border. Styled with the Pyaripia silver jhumkas and midnight blue eye liner</em>
An orange and gold Bengal jamdani finished with a threadwork and sequins border. Styled with the Pyaripia silver jhumkas and midnight blue eye liner

Each piece of sari made by Ayush takes about six months to make since he is extremely particular about details. "If you look carefully you will see nothing is coordinated but the overall look is still very cohesive and that is the beauty of it," adds the soft spoken designer, who doesn't believe in an iota of make-up.

 A gold silver Benarasi georgette sari that has been spray painted and teamed with a powder blue floral silk blouse. styled with the Rubyhari Jhumka and striking lips
 A gold silver Benarasi georgette sari that has been spray painted and teamed with a powder blue floral silk blouse. styled with the Rubyhari Jhumka and striking lips

Ayush has also developed a whole new collection of some gorgeous kalamakri artwork that will be painted on kanjivarams, linen, tussar silks and finished with mukaish and badla work from Lucknow. The saris are bright in colour with striking hand painted murals depicting various animals including lions, peacocks, horses, elephants, deer and floral motifs.

<em>A teal gold organza Benarasi silk sari with a burgundy check border</em>
A teal gold organza Benarasi silk sari with a burgundy check border

Besides, the couturier is currently finalising some striking patola patterns that will be launched this summer. "These are colourful and extremely beautiful. I have played with some non-traditional patterns that have been mixed with traditional elements woven in Patan and it has taken me over seven months to bring them to life. You will see motifs like bright red roses paired with yellow mustard elephants with a touch of gold,"Ayush informs.

<em>A luscious orange green kanjivaram silk sari finished with a zardozi border and styled with Premkatori jhumkas</em>
A luscious orange green kanjivaram silk sari finished with a zardozi border and styled with Premkatori jhumkas

There are some very unusual jewellery pieces that are going to be a part of the collection, too. Made with pure silver and a touch of gold and precious stones, they create a powerful look adding to the allure. "I have used a variety of elements in one single piece to create a bohemian effect, which gives it a very unique characteristic," Ayush explains.

<em>Hand block printed Bengal laal paar sada sari (white sari with red borders) finished with gold and silver lumpi</em>
Hand block printed Bengal laal paar sada sari (white sari with red borders) finished with gold and silver lumpi

For styling, Ayush feels that red lipstick with very little eye makeup, a nice bindi and hair pulled bask into a loose bun will go perfectly well with his saris. 

"But the most important tip from me would be to love yourself exactly the way you are and dress yourself precisely the way you want to," signs off the designer.

Price starts at Rs 14,000 for a basic handloom piece

@sharmidas

sharmishtha.g@newindianexpress.com

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