Kaleidoscopic is perhaps the last adjective that one would use to describe designer duo Abraham and Thakore’s design sensibilities — given their love for minimalistic elegance and a shade palette that often dabbles with monochromes. So when we heard that the label’s Spring/Summer 2020 collection is named Kaleidoscope, the first thing that we tackled during a conversation with Rakesh Thakore was how the inspiration fits into the brand’s design language. “We have looked at the kaleidoscope purely as a source for the wonderful colours that are formed,” says Rakesh. He explains, “We have used these colours in the very particular design language which veers towards the minimal.”
Sacred geometry
Predominantly containing leaf and floral motifs along with geometrical patterns (courtesy the kaleidoscope’s influence) the Spring/Summer line is reminiscent of the brand’s earlier collection that was showcased at the previous edition of Lakmé Fashion Week. But upon closer inspection, S/S ’20 reveals a playful use of hand embroidery in summery shades of pastels, as opposed to A&T’s strict adherence to print during the last season. “We believe that every collection is part of a larger design narrative that exists irrespective of the use of a particular motif. From a wider perspective, as a brand, we try to communicate an attitude towards fashion, tha it should be light, easy and wearable.”
Bright young things
As a play on the use of light in the kaleidoscope, the collection that employs handloom and power loom cotton and ecoverve — a sustainable viscose fabric — also throws sheer silk organzas and voiles into the mix. This creates an impression of layered and symmetric patterns. Extending to shades like rose, lac, sumac, amla and bay leaf, the collection draws from colours that appear in nature as inspiration for the palette.
Designed as easy separates such as dresses, tunics and shirts that can be teamed with trousers, each style can also be coordinated with sheer lightweight jackets (from the line) to create a layered look that is light and comfortable for a warm summer day. “We believe that comfort and elegance are inseparable. That modernity and tradition can co-exist comfortably.”
Captain planet
One of the few legacy brands in the country that is exploring all options while holding onto their core values, Abraham & Thakore are actively pursuing sustainability — working on new innovative fabrics and creating silhouettes that are timeless. “Fashion needs to go beyond short term trendiness, where every garment is made with integrity and high-quality process. For sustainability to be really meaningful, I fear we may have to adopt some ‘uncool’ life practices...if we are to survive the future.”
Rs 4,000 onwards. Available at Amethyst until February 15.