I use my image, liberty, status quo to promote art, artisans: Manish Malhotra on crafting hopes with Mijwan Couture Show 2022

We are living in an era where fashion stalwarts are entering big collaborations to expand their reach. However, those collaborations become all the more significant which thrive on philanthropy and give back to society. Ace designer Manish Malhotra’s association with the Mijwan Welfare Society is one such union that is known for crafting hopes in society by empowering the disenfranchised, particularly the women from rural India.

The welfare society, founded by late poet Kaifi Azmi and currently led by veteran actress Shabana Azmi works to empower women and educate girl children while preserving the ancient craft form of chikankari. Manish’s association with the society marks a decade of philanthropic collaboration which was presented in the form of the stellar Mijwan Couture Show where he worked with women of Mijwan to create stunning ensembles.

The show revived chikankari craft with Bollywood’s power couple Deepika Padukone and Ranveer Singh being the showstoppers. While Deepika transcended royalty dressed in Manish’s beautifully crafted soft taupe bridal chikankari lehenga embellished with silver sequins, crystals and Swarovski stones on a velvet base paired with a dramatic hand embroidered shoulder cape, Ranveer looked debonair in an exquisitely crafted velvet sherwani. The collection dazzled in the glory of some of the most exquisite jewels from Manish Malhotra Jewellery— flat-cut diamonds, Russian and Zambian emeralds, pearls, polkis, rubies and pure gold that were handcrafted to perfection.

While the world saw the splendour of Manish's creations, back in Mijwan village of Uttar Pradesh an impact was being made. There, the rural girls were able to learn financial planning, earn a stable remuneration and some, for the first time in their life, were able to afford a gold chain for themselves due to the designer’s efforts at the Mijwan Welfare Society.

Moreover, Mijwan is not the only benevolent endeavour of the marvellous Mr Malhotra. Time and again, he has created his beguiling seasonal collections and couture that have contributed to Cancer Patients Aid Association, supported initiatives like Save The Girl Child and uplifted artisans’ life who bear the finest of skills but lack guidance. In this issue, we bring the munificent personality of the designer through his magnificent creations. He shares with us about using power to promote art and fashion can be a virtuous field that goes beyond just pleasurable indulgence to seep a change in society.

Manish Malhotra completes 10 years of association with Mijwan. How has the journey been in terms of crafting hopes and empowering a section of society, especially women?
Ten years ago, I adopted the sewing and tailoring centre at Mijwan in a collaborative effort with Shabana Azmi and Namrata Goyal to back the artisans and revive the traditional art of chikankari for the last decade. Through training, they learn new embroidering techniques that help them embroider on the base of silhouettes. Further, the material went to the atelier and was revived by design. As a result, women from rural areas earn competitive remuneration out of handcrafting that contribute to their lives and enables them to educate their children. Moreover, over the years, their crafts have translated into the language of couture.

What's the inspiration behind creations for the Mijwan Couture Show?
Chikankari’s core technique works well with Indian silhouettes, from lehengas and gowns to sarees. There’s constant innovation of the craft itself, as seen in our collections. This year’s show saw a fusion of different motifs and techniques.

The embroidery was so intricate that it required skilled hands and training, which we provide at the Mijwan Welfare Society for the women to carve their way forward and become independent through the earnings. Chikankari is an ancient craft that can be preserved with constant efforts and initiatives. So it’s an investment in heritage. The very heritage was modernised and revived at our Mijwan Couture Show to inspire one and all.

How'd you describe your choice of techniques, colours and motifs that were chosen?
The collection overall seeks a balance between tradition and innovation. The flowing silhouettes exude liberating energy along with with stand-out feathered corsets, crossover styles and exaggerated sleeves. We created theatrical romantic veils, ivory lehengas, and bursts of tulle draped blouses where the assemblage was seen in sequin sheets and deep hues of olive, blues, and black.

The ensembles were inspired by the Shibori technique on velvet that added dramatic contrast to ivories. The silhouettes had my trademark embellishments like sequins, beads, feathers, crystals and pearls that emphasised the elaborate embroidery with hints of gold, silvers, and champagne. This time we added some striking elements in the form of accessories like ornate eye masks, hand embroidered hoops, and of course, the feathers that brought an extra touch of enigma and enchantment to the entire collection.

The showstoppers were Ranveer and Deepika. How they resonate with the collection's essence? Ranveer and Deepika have undeniable electrifying chemistry. I couldn't think of anyone else but them to muse this extraordinary collection that celebrated purpose, people and progress. Both of these talented superstars symbolise independence, power and passion which are also the attributes that have fuelled the artisans of Mijwan to rise beyond their potential and earn a living for themselves and their families. Their support and belief in this, speak volumes about their contribution to communities at large.

How has couture evolved in recent times given that sustainability, exotic locations and practicality are being included as key aspects?
I think environmental, social, and corporate governance is one of the most important factors, coming in. As a label, and as a first-tier designer today, I think it is very important for me to consider factors like technology, sustainability, and empowerment. For enterprises that are so trusted, or for any company, we must move ahead with these values. We are working on imbibing all of them in our journey. Currently, we work with the Mijwan Welfare Society for empowerment and are very particular about electricity and water provision in areas where the artisans of Mijwan work along with us.

People know Manish Malhotra as the go-to Bollywood designer, however, do you feel this brand image eclipses the philanthropic work you do?
Philanthropy can be integrated into businesses. I feel brands and independent companies can act as agents of good in the world. The brand gives me creative opportunities to explore innovative art and my entrepreneurial journey connects me to the people who contribute greatly to sustaining our traditional art. My image, liberty, and status quo promote art and the artisans behind it on a global platform — be it through a fashion show, cinema costumes, trunk show, or marketing advertising, which are all outcome-oriented.

I feel responsible and also bear a sense of great pride to utilise all my resources to the maximum to showcase the workmanship of vulnerable artisans in India, who lack guidance but have great potential. And especially, at the core of our artisan community are women whose livelihood depends on their authentic craft which needs to be preserved and protected.

Is it essential to become impactful in the fashion industry or can fashion stay just for pleasurable indulgence?
Fashion is art, and there are so many people behind the art — the artisans, designers, stylists, karigars, sketch artists, graphic artists, visual designers, the administrative operational team and the promotional team to amplify the tenacity of the work. Fashion can be a pleasurable indulgence to the viewer but the collective effort behind that one outfit has an army of talented people relentlessly working to promote, preserve and protect the culture which insinuates an impact. We ensure that their collective effort and commitment to art, passion and perseverance get paid for and don't go to vain.

Price on request. The Mijwan Couture collection is available online and in flagship stores.
Mail: priyamvada@newindianexpress.com
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