In a city full of homegrown labels claiming to come up with unique designs on handwoven authentic fabric, Paromita Banerjee’s eponymous label stands out for its silent commitment to quality and innovation.
Sustaining several weaver clusters across the country for over 13 years now, this highly talented graduate from the National School of Design loves to take things slow and steady. Not a believer in stunning her audience with edgy over-the-top creations, Paromita’s collections comprise timeless pieces that can be handed down as heirlooms.
A conscious fashionista and a champion of the six yards, Paromita also works towards making sari an appealing attire to the millennials, so much so, that the younger generation includes the fabric as a part of their regular wardrobe.
This summer too, the couturier has come up with a range of beautiful ethnic wear, Saaj 2.0, consisting of saris, long jackets, blouses, tops, and skirts that just debuted at Bangladesh Fashion Week in Dhaka in association with the Fashion Design Council of Bangladesh.
Ahead of Poila Baisakh, the designer unveils her vibrant edit with the beautiful Tollywood actress Ushasi Ray channelling four very stylish looks to rock the Bengali New Year.
Excerpts from the chat:
How differently have you created your summer special collection this year?
The collection is our take on festive summer dressing and festive occasions around summer; celebrating handwoven fabrics like tussar, zari and silk matka with sprinkles of our signature jamdani in ghera dresses, kalidar-style kurtas, anti-fit capes, asymmetrical under-layers and saris.
The weaves are colour blocked in shades of ecru, beige, coral, sindoor red, amber and gold. Tussar matka is woven with hazaar buti jamdani in layered dresses worn with anti-fit capes. A layered reversible cape is worn over saris to play on tone-and-tone but each ensemble can be dissected and worn as separates too. A hint of red and white accents reminds one of the festive Bengal.
What was the design philosophy behind the collection?
As always, the idea was to utilise handwoven fabric to celebrate handwoven luxury retold for a global audience. We have two kinds of audience - Indians who are well travelled and the international clientele that also includes Indians and they want outfits that have minimal aesthetics while retaining the colours and vibrancy of our country. There is a spontaneous understated luxe-quotient in this handwoven collection which speaks volumes of the fabrics and weaves used - silk matka, tussar and woven gold with the technique of jamdani as accents. There is a play of gold woven in the fabric to give it an antique shine.
How handloom Bengali saris have evolved over the years?
The conventional saris from Bengal in the 80s were primarily taant pieces made in the looms with starched cotton, stiff on the first wear. Prior to that, fine count muslin saris in fine cotton muslin with jamdani woven on the base in soft opaque yarn were in vogue. Bengal was also known for hand-block printed saris inspired by hand-drawn alpona motifs from Visva Bharati.
Over the years, weavers and designers here started exploring new types of yarn and combinations of yarns giving rise to contemporary saris using cotton, linen, silk and tussar that trend around the world.
How can millennials incorporate saris into their wardrobes?
They can wear the sari by incorporating newer drapes and newer styles in blouses. One can safely say, the millennials have made the sari more colloquial and functional in their wardrobe. For them, the sari is not just restricted to conventional occasion wear and a few would wear it as a sense of power dressing for a minimal style statement.
How can one style the saris differently to make it a part of their daily wardrobe?
By not 'overthinking' a sari and its drape! A confident sari wearer is one who is most natural while wearing it and does not let the drape overpower the persona of the wearer.
Wear a mix of functional and versatile blouses and choose comfort over style.
How has your brand evolved over the years?
In the past 13 years, from taking baby steps to commanding over our craft, we have come a long way.
We have always placed relationships at the core of our brand building. As a hands-on entrepreneur I have realised, the only thing that works for a good brand is how grounded it has remained from the time it started out and remembering every single person who has been a part of the process from the start. In terms of design, we have evolved by incorporating more varied weaver clusters in our design and fabric repertoire. Currently, we work with 7 weaver clusters across India.
In terms of marketing, we have maintained an organic following on our social media feeds and stressed telling our stories with each product we have sold.
What will be trending this summer when it comes to ethnic wear?
Co-ord sets in breathable fabrics, statement jewellery that are heirloom pieces, or hand-me-downs -- something that connects you with your roots and who you were, while growing up.
What will be trending in summer weddings?
An earthy palette and lots of woven gold besides a lot of heirloom restructured and upcycled bijoux pieces will always trend. Pieces from your mother's or grandmother's wardrobe that you can repurpose for weddings are also much cherished.
Trousseau tips for brides who want to go the handloom way?
Incorporate heirloom quality trousseau that you might have inherited from your past generation. Nobody makes fabrics and craft of that quality anymore. Guard them zealously and flaunt them proudly.
There is nothing more beautiful and hot, than an 80-year-old Benarasi being restructured or repurposed for your own wedding.
Keep your attention to 1-2 key pieces in your ensemble that speak of who you are, rather than mixing styles from various Pinterest feeds! Your wedding should speak of who you are. And not what your wedding planner or your stylist has asked of you.
How do you incorporate sustainability into your label?
By closing the chain and cycle and eliminating waste along the way. Each of our leftover fabrics from past collections is used to make newer products. There is nothing that goes to waste in our studio.
We have tried to reduce the carbon footprint by making most things in-house and sourcing them locally. Except for our handwoven fabrics, which are woven across seven clusters in the country, our talent pool and raw materials are all sourced locally.
Your upcoming collections?
We are busy with the launch of our kidswear label Chotto Pa which literally translates into little feet. The label has been inspired by my 5-year-old daughter’s simple and refined sense of dressing.
We are also reviving a 150-year-old Bengali weave that we are getting woven by weavers who were out of work during the two years of the pandemic. We are getting them to start all over again and it is a great sense of achievement for us.
We are also in talks to expand our retail to four more stores across the country and internationally. Currently, we retail across 14 stores pan India.
On paromita-banerjee.com
Keeping it cool
Here's what actress Ushasi Ray's summer wardrobe looks like.
Poila Boisakh wardrobe: Pure cotton mulmul saris and sleeveless blouses are what I love wearing during Bengali New Year
Summer fashion: Comfortable cotton outfits in all shapes and sizes and cool colours are a must when it comes to summer fashion.
Summer wardrobe essentials: A lot of comfortable outfits, especially, I love linen outfits, shirts and dresses
Favourite summer outfits: A linen dress, it can be short or long.
Favourite accessories: Shades
Essentials always in the bag: A good sunscreen
Pics: Debarshi Sarkar / Hair and Makeup: Abhijit Paul, assisted by Sananda Mondal Laha / Styling: Anupam Chatterjee / Jewellery: B Sirkar Johuree / Location courtesy: The Astor Hotel / Food courtesy: Hanglaatherium