The recently concluded Paris Haute Couture Fall/Winter Week 2023 was perhaps the grandest showcase of the artistry of Indian craftsmanship showcased at designer Rahul Mishra’s show. His edit, We The People is an ode to craftsmen of the soil who painstakingly looped a stitch per second on yards of fabric that created opulent couture ensembles. One could see their intricate artistry live from the venue, the stone-walled courtyard of La Monnaie de Paris, where two craftsmen sat on either side of the runway, silently embroidering silhouettes attached to panels and a tambour frame.
The spectators at the show wondered whether the artisan’s deep state of concentration and undisturbed focus carries their thoughts to a parallel realm of imaginative and vibrant embroidery creations. “Stirred by the announcement of India becoming the world's most populous country, we ponder the relevance of 'people' for our brand and its constantly growing community. Our atelier celebrates each life that is touched by Rahul Mishra's Couture and the strength that it brings to the system,” Rahul begins saying. He adds, “'With this collection, we also observe the brand’s efforts towards the reverse migration of embroidery artisans from the densely populated sub-factory setups of large cities to their local communities in the Indian villages.”
The result is a 40-piece ultra-glamorous collection replete with botanical motifs and in some places figurines of artisans and sewing communities sewn into clothes. In one detail an artiste sewing with a machine is brought to life with aari work while in another a group of artisans sewing together amidst a forest brings the collective effort to the fore.
Rahul shares, “This season, we are also joined in Paris by our master craftsmen, Afzal Zariwala and Noorain Alam on the set of the show. Afzal bhai and Noor (as we dearly call them) have been a part of the brand’s efforts towards reverse migration of craftsmen from dense sub-factory setups of city slums back to their villages and have made many collections happen in the past decade and before.”
The collection sparks a sense of awe, as embroiderers use silhouettes as canvas, transforming them into a rich tapestry of motifs of a serene lotus pond, forests of Sundarbans, and wild beasts where surfaces come alive with sequin and aari embroidery work. The collection includes semi-traditional Indian wear like grand lehengas and splendour saris while also playing up on avant-garde styles like a sequin blazer set, catsuit, magnanimous puffed sleeve gown, girandoles tops and much more.
Rahul shares on the making, “Made in India for the world, We, The People articulates itself in a contemporary fashion while highlighting the quintessential, slow handwork of our atelier. Including the embroidery period, each piece is realised over an average of three thousand hours depending on the silhouette. This season, the ‘look’ is especially glamorous and celebratory as the silhouettes reference from the creative excellence of Master Erté. Our intention remains to create innovative & conscious creations that transcend art and fashion.”
Rahul has been a regular at the Paris Haute Couture since a decade now. While We The People edit is Maison’s most illustrious depiction of the metier of Indian artisans, his previous edit titled Cosmos also touched on their artistry with surreal elements of sea-scapes, underwater life and submerging cities.
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