Oasis of couture, craft & creativity

An advocate of handcrafting, ensuring that his collections provide livelihood opportunities to rural artisans, particularly in India, celebrated designer Rahul Mishra has been omnipresent in the fashion industry for years. He is in fact the first Indian designer to showcase at the Paris Haute Couture Week.

His collaborations with artisans are not limited to surface embellishments; instead, they form the very core of his design process. The handwoven textiles, intricate embroidery, and traditional Indian techniques he employs are meticulously crafted by artisans, most of whom come from India’s remote villages.

Rahul believes in fashion that transcends seasons. His collections often reflect a deep connection to nature, with designs that incorporate motifs like florals, landscapes, and celestial elements, turning clothing into an extension of art. His slow fashion ethos challenges the transient nature of fashion cycles, offering timeless pieces that defy the fast-fashion trend. Known for dressing many celebrities in his ethereal pieces, he was trending for the custom saree which Hollywood actor Zendaya wore at the splashy opening of the new NMACC in Mumbai.

Rahul served the look as a modern interpretation of a saree silhouette, complete with a golden beaded top and sweeping embroidered skirt. Now he is finally in Hyderabad with his flagship store in Banjara Hills where he has both Rahul Mishra Couture and AFEW Rahul Mishra on display. The store designed by Amith Chhabra was inspired from the rocks of Hyderabad while the ceiling derives its inspiration from Hussainsagar Lake. At the launch, CE spoke to the designer about the importance of slow fashion, empowering the local craft communities of India, getting inspired by Mahatma Gandhi and more. Excerpts.

Tell us about your beautiful flagship store in Hyderabad.

This store in Hyderabad has been a true labour of love. We started thinking about it, conceptualising it almost two years back. We were looking for a space which has no problem of parking, and has all the amenities. So, in that way, this Road No 1, Banjara Hills, ticked all the boxes. For the creation of the space, we took inspiration, like the ceiling, has the ripple effect from the Hussainsagar Lake and we have placed stones found in the city to showcase our work at the store. It took us eight to nine months to create this space.

What is your signature style?

Everything that we create, we create at a very original level. For example, every motif, every artistic rendition, every leaf which you see here, everything is hand-painted and hand-created first by our entire design team. We do not refer, rarely we look at books or motifs which are existent. We try to draw everything from scratch. So, I think originality is something, which is a big hallmark of our designs.

What do you think about Hyderabad’s fashion scene?

Hyderabad is amazing. Really inspiring, really beautiful. Hyderabad is a city which has got a great sense of style. It is a very socially rich region of India. People understand and value great quality. There is so much to learn from people here. I am more than humbled to see the support and love of all the people in Hyderabad.

In the fashion world, what do you think is trending right now?

I think craft is trending. When you are buying a piece for a wedding, not only are you celebrating, you are also including the craftsmen in it, bringing a smile to their entire family.

What inspired you to be a fashion designer?

I studied at the National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad. One of our great minds, late Professor Ranjan showed us what Mahatma Gandhi is all about, not what we read in books. We went to Sabarmati Ashram and spent some time there. We started understanding what is the purpose behind making anything. As a designer we steer clear of digital prints and do hand embroideries so that we can create jobs. Like what Gandhi did for khadi with hand spinning. If I have to create something, let’s create something which becomes a reason of survival for somebody, or reason for achieving their goals in their life or dreams, and at the same time, it becomes a reason for love, and reason for appreciating art for somebody else.

What’s your creative process?

I’m a very emotional guy, so with my team, with my wife Divya, we all work together, we think about our kind of inspiration. Inspiration can be tangible or intangible. It can be just a flower, it can be a garden, it can be a travel, anything, which just touches our heart. It can be a problem also, which we look at sometimes. And then, we are able to create a new perspective around that issue or the problem. And then, we always question ourselves, why do we have to make another outfit in this world when so much already exists? Is it creating a social impact? As a designer we want to create a beautiful meeting point between the craftsmen and customers.

As a designer who has showcased at Paris Fashion Week, how do you adapt your designs to appeal to both Indian and international audiences?

In Paris we do haute couture. Haute couture is an idea where you blur the idea between art, fashion and design. So, my collection tends to be more artistic when I showcase internationally. When I showcase internationally, my idea is always how do I make an Indian idea a global idea. That’s what we did when we did an outfit for Zendaya. When you are creating something for Mark Zuckerberg, Selena Gomez or Jennifer Lopez, I try to give them something which is essentially Indian. If a LBD or Pantsuit is staple, why can’t a saree be staple on a global level!

Who is your favourite person to dress?

I think everybody. I keep seeing amazing images of people who wear Rahul Mishra, and I feel very inspired. Young brides, creators, actors like Ananya Pandey, Janhvi Kapoor, Tamannaah Bhatia... I am not doing justice by just naming a few.

What is happening next for Rahul Mishra?

A lot of things are going on. A global collaboration with a global brand. Again, handmade is in the forefront. I would say a global iconic brand becomes a canvas for our artists to showcase their artistry.

— Story by Reshmi Chakravorty