
Rehane Yavar Dhala’s passion for fashion is undeniable—a passion that has blossomed into a legacy of timeless, innovative designs that push the boundaries of elegance. Reflecting on the moment she first realised fashion was her true calling, she shares, “I knew from a very young age, around 12 or 13, that I wanted to create beautiful clothes. I remember sketching my first cohesive collection while I was in Iran in the late 80s—about four or five dresses that reflected my youthful vision. Even then, I could feel the pulse of something larger, something that would become my life’s work.”
For Rehane, fashion isn’t just an art form; it’s a deeply personal expression, one that transcends the act of designing. “Fashion is something that I feel within,” she explains. “It’s about transforming what I sense into something that reflects the world outside. It’s a way to communicate, not just with fabric and design, but with the world around me.” Her creations blend inspirations from cultural tapestries, intricate weaves, and an ever-present sense of modernity, femininity, and edginess. “Every piece I make carries that balance. It’s not just about creating a beautiful ball gown—it’s about adding a twist, making it relevant, making it speak.”
Her relationship with fashion has been nothing short of a permanent romance, one that has only deepened over the years. Rehane’s designs have always been a reflection of her unyielding desire to push boundaries. “It’s about making things more beautiful, more relevant to the times we live in, more feminine, and sometimes sexier. Fashion is inspirational—it reflects the era we are in, and I want my work to always have that sense of immediacy and modernity,” she reflects.
This relentless pursuit of innovation is what drives Rehane to continually explore new ideas. “I’ve always been inspired by designers who aren’t afraid to break norms—John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier, Valentino... Their work shaped me, especially in the late 80s and early 90s when I was studying fashion in Italy. It was a golden era of creativity, and seeing their work, especially Galliano’s iconic collections for Dior, was like witnessing magic unfold on the runway,” she recalls. These influences continue to fuel her desire to create designs that challenge conventional beauty and explore the unknown.
But fashion, for Rehane, isn’t only about the designs—it’s about context, about how fashion interacts with the world. “Fashion, in my eyes, isn’t just a reflection of the times—it’s also deeply rooted in place. What’s considered fashionable in Mumbai may not work in Chennai, and certainly not in Indore,” she says. “So, every design is a conversation between the culture, the place, and the person wearing it. I may not always cater to market forces, but I aim to elevate those who embrace my work, to take them to the next level of chic.”
This philosophical approach to fashion contrasts sharply with the landscape today, where Rehane sees a departure from structure and elegance. “The current fashion world is dominated by fast fashion and a shift towards comfort. The days of power suits and structured designs are fading. Now, it’s all about leisurewear, and frankly, that doesn’t excite me,” she admits. “Fashion today feels more commercial than creative. It’s a business, and while that’s important, it’s not the driving force behind my work. I design to express something, to say something meaningful—not just to make a profit.”
This changing landscape has left Rehane somewhat disillusioned about the future of independent designers. “There’s no space for individual creators anymore unless they have heavy financial backing. The door that was once open to creative talents during the 80s and 90s is now closed. It’s a much more conformist, commercial space now,” she says with a hint of sadness in her voice. “In Europe and the West, the idea of individuality in fashion is quickly disappearing. But in India, we still have hope. There’s still some room for experimentation, for the creation of unique, high-fashion pieces, but even that is becoming rarer.”
Despite these challenges, Rehane remains committed to her craft, and it is this resilience that continues to shape her designs. “I’ve always believed that fashion is an extension of who we are; and even when the landscape changes, my commitment to pushing boundaries will never fade. That’s what keeps the fire alive,” she affirms.
If she were to design a single piece that encapsulates her love for fashion, it would be a business suit—though not just any suit. “For me, the ultimate piece of clothing is a business suit. But not a stiff, conventional one—my version would have a twist, something a little unexpected, a little daring. Something that empowers the wearer,” she says with conviction. “That’s the power of fashion—to not just dress the body, but to empower the soul.”
Through her eyes, fashion is never just about what’s on the surface—it’s a reflection of the times, the culture, and the person wearing it. And with every creation, Rehane continues to prove that her true calling is not just to design, but to inspire.
— manuvipin@newindianexpress.com