Aseem Kapoor brings a cosmic twist to classic silhouettes in his Fall 2025 line Akaar
He is known for his love of traditional motifs and for bringing a breath of fresh air to the way he interprets classic silhouettes. Couturier Aseem Kapoor’s latest Fall 2025 collection, Akaar, is an extension of all things heritage—but with a contemporary edge.
The standout look: Geometry meets grace
Translating to “form” or “manifestation,” Akaar is inspired by the spiritual and artistic traditions of ancient Peru, particularly the Nazca geoglyphs. The collection reinterprets spirals, hummingbirds, and cosmic pathways through artisanal craft, layered textiles, and asymmetric silhouettes.
The label also marks a new milestone this year with the introduction of menswear for the very first time, staying true to Aseem’s philosophy—“think global, act tribal.” We spoke to the designer to learn more about this new launch.
What was the initial spark behind this collection?
The initial spark came from the idea of tracing back to the geometry of existence—to forms that connect ancient cultures with cosmic design. The Nazca geoglyphs—these incredible lines and forms carved into the Peruvian desert—felt like more than just art. They were maps of faith: geometry turned into prayer. That idea of translating energy and belief into form felt very close to what I do with clothing—shaping emotion and story into something tangible.
How did you translate the symbolic language into contemporary silhouettes and textures?
Rather than using the symbols literally—which you can see in the prints and embroideries—we also worked with the feeling behind them. Spirals became fluid drapes and twisted seams; the hummingbird’s movement inspired layers that flutter and shift as you walk; and the Nazca lines turned into linear hand embroidery and pleated structures. The result is clothing that feels both grounded and transcendent.
Can you talk us through one standout look from the collection?
There’s one look that really captures the essence of Akaar—the one worn by Anasuya Sengupta. It’s an off-shoulder, flowy yet structured ensemble featuring a pleated mermaid skirt, both richly detailed with intricate geometry inspired by the Nazca lines and heavily embroidered and ornamented. The top’s sculpted sleeve adds a sense of asymmetry and movement, while the skirt grounds the look with its weight and form.
How did craft play a role in this collection’s storytelling?
Craft is always at the heart of what we do—it’s how ideas take shape. In Akaar, we used techniques like hand pleating and textured embroidery to interpret Peruvian symbols through an Indian lens. It became a kind of cultural dialogue—the craftspeople’s hands turning ancient lines into something alive again. That’s the real storytelling for me. Every stitch and weave was an act of mapping—of reimagining ancient Peruvian symbology through Indian craftsmanship.
How does Akaar reflect “think global, act tribal” philosophy?
Akaar celebrates a shared human vocabulary of symbols, rituals, and geometry that transcend geography. For me, it means staying rooted while being open to the world. Akaar is inspired by Peru but made in India—it’s about finding shared rhythms between different cultures. The tribal essence isn’t just about craft; it’s about community, ritual, and belonging. When you bring that spirit into a global context, you create something timeless.
Price on request. Available online.
—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com
@ManuVipin
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