Pranati Kejriwall pays homage to French designer Maleleine Vionnet in her debut collection at Coral, Kolkata
MADELEINE VIONNET’S REVOLUTIONARY ‘bias cut’ that triggered fashion frenzy on the streets of Paris back in the early ’90s, has been reinvented by Pranati Kejriwall to create a more contemporary ensemble. The gen-next couturier launched her debut collection Vionnet, paying homage to the French designer, at Coral, a multi-designer store at Love Lock Street.
A fourth-generation fashion entrepreneur, 25-year-old Pranati, who honed her creative skills at Lasalle Colle ge of Arts, Sing apore and London College of Fashion, says, “After an apprenticeship of around two years under Anamika Khanna, I decided to follow the footsteps of the women in my family, w h o owned their labels. I grew up learning the lingo of f ashion from my mother and grandmother and would use miniature dolls as my muse to style.” Talking about her collection, the alumna of Modern High School says, “My collection is a homage to the ‘Queen of Bias Cut’. Vionnet liberated women from wearing very stiff clothing with her cuts, enhancing the natural female form while keeping the silhouette simple. I have used some of her cutting techniques and created a lot of ruffling, layering and draping with Italian fabric Banana Crepe and finished it with baby locking, laser cuts, beading and 3D embellishments. The technique focuses on and enhances different parts of the body. All of it combines to create a contemporary ensemble,”
Wearing a black and white cold shoulder trail dress, the young designer informs that the collection that consists of jumpsuits, tops and dresses is quite versatile and ideal for brunch or cocktail parties. We couldn’t agree more after we spotted a powder blue oneshoulder top with sachet ruffles giving way for a voluminous trail on one side. Another bespoke gown in the same hue with ruffles running diagonally, with cold-shoulder, is a head-turner. Apart from the classic shades of black and white, one can find grey to baby pink and rich evening colours like indigo and wine, completing the day and night ensemble of her eponymous label.
Pranati, who is also into painting, takes the inspiration of her collections’ palette from the artwork of painters like Van Gogh, Picasso and Joseph Lee. “For me, it’s always about taking inspiration from something which existed in the past and reinterpreting it to suit contemporary trends. I decide which colour should be my dominant shade, which should be my highlight and more inspired by paintings of great artists. For instance, the current collection is inspired by Los Angeles based ar tist Jose ph Lee’s works,” offers Praniti, who is gearing up for her Fall/Winter line that will be more elaborate, targeting the festive season during the last two months of the year. She also has the Spring Summer 2020 collection in mind that will be psychedelic with quirky prints, keeping the sensibilities of the label in mind.
Rs 8,000 onwards.