Festive special: Ashima Leena's edit, Umme Rabab, is an ode to the weavers
A champion of sustainable fashion, designer label Ashima Leena showcased its latest festive-wedding collection called Umme Rabab at the Lotus Makeup Indian Fashion Week.
This stunning collection is a tribute to the indigenous skilled craftsmen and weavers of the textile industry who are struggling for their livelihood in this pandemic-scarred economy. Leena J Singh has been working with them for the past three decades and stands in solidarity with them during these tough times.
"This showcase of our Couture Collection 2020 is titled Umme Rabab that represents the serenity and divinity of a woman known for her beauty, eloquence and wisdom. Today's women are the epitome of a modern Maharani who is strong-willed and dedicated but doused in softness and femininity," tells Leena.
This couture collection combines delicate hand embroidery in the form of meticulously curated textiles with classic Ashima Leena Maharani silhouettes. "Through our interpretation, we aspire to reflect poetic flow in volume, layers, and impeccable garment construction, which characterises the unique beauty of Umme Rabab," adds Leena.
The art of textile crafting, which is a signature style of Leena creates a magical mix of different kinds of weaves put together in breath-taking patterns.
The reinterpreted, lengthened jackets can be worn with any of the classic silhouettes, peplums, circular lehengas, appliqué delicate sarees with jewelled tassels. There are churnis in chanderi and brocade weaves.
The bright hues transform textures into a chromatic scale of magical colours, and the subtle and exotic hues exude an old-world charm, which harmonises closely with the beauty of UmmeRabab.
Mustard, muted turmeric, soft dusky pink, ivory, pomegranate red, iron black, beaten gold, bold pinks, deep emerald, sandy beige comprises the colour palate of this diverse collection. The fabric has a blend of many hues and colours, which renders an inimitable uniqueness to the outfits.
The outfits have interplays of dexterous Appliqué work with unique brocade fabrics, delicate French knots and detailed zardozi embroidery. Minutely designed fabric panels, complex hand embroideries, botanical motifs, intricate Paisley patterns bordered with hand-embroidered beadwork, handmade tassels, form this tribute and collection.