Hyderabadi label RaMa gives a trendy spin to muslin in its latest edit Amar Amor

Hyderabad amazes us with its appreciation for arts and crafts. The city is home to many homegrown labels that are championing ethical fashion and RaMa by Rajeswari Mavuri is one of those. The label brings limited edition ensembles crafted with eco-friendly dyes and fabrics and treats cloth as a canvas to re-imagine stories based on folklore, mysteries, legends and life. This time, the label has dropped its latest collection Amär Amor which pays homage to Bengal’s (present-day Bangladesh) muslin — one of the most valuable fabrics on earth some 200 years ago. It was called the fabric of royals worn by the aristocratic class of Mughals, French, Nawabs and more. The fabric, made in a meticulous 16-step process with rare cotton, is so lightweight that it was called ‘woven air’ by poets.

Rajeswari has used the fabric for her latest drop which she also showcased in Paris at a pop-up and earned wide acceptability for it. She tells us about the inspiration for Amär Amor, “Bengal’s muslin is legendary in the truest sense. People throughout history thought it was the fabric of Gods. But sadly, the muslin GI tag is with Bangladesh. I think the Indian part of Bengal, too, has fantastic weavers that are true to the form. " Rajeswari wanted to create something local in nature and global in appeal. “After reading some Bengali literature, I asked myself — who else but Tagore? And then, I would ask one more question. If the women of Tagore were to dress up today, how would they do it? So I came up with the name Amar which means ‘my’ in Bengali and Amour which translates to ‘love’ in French. I was trying to find a connection between the best of Bengal and the best of fashion, which is French,” she says.

While muslin is a plain cloth, Rajeswari has given it a snazzy look by using toned down colours like powder blue, cantaloupe, carrot orange, sky blue, baby pink on a slew of chic pieces like dresses, chequered shirts, baggy pants with loose shirts, high-waist shorts and more. Expect interesting patterns on silhouettes with stripes and checks made with the Jamdani technique. At the same time, she has maintained muslin’s purity intact by using azo-free dyes and avoiding embellishments. “Indians make the best fabric in the world. I didn’t feel the need to overdo the already perfected craft. What our weavers make is a piece of art with simple and understated designs,” she adds on the design process. The artisanal edit lets our skin and the earth breathe life! From the making to the packing, RaMa ensures sustainability and pursues mindful fashion. 

We asked her about the collection’s reception in Paris and she shares on an elated note, “I saw that even the accomplished designers stopped by to feel the designs and appreciate the quality of craftsmanship. In fact, a few fashion students had teary eyes touching the cloth. That is the power of the weavers and the living tradition we must preserve.”
 
₹3,500 upwards. Available online. 
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