Couture Show: Shivan and Narresh bring the versatility of knits in floral inspired collection

In the design world, couture is a playing ground for imagination. It gives liberty to labels to break away from old design rules and innovate new methods in craft. For designer duo Shivan and Narresh, every couture season is a journey onto a newfound path of experimentation. In 2021, they took a bold decision to depart from prints and focus solely on their signature colour palette of lavender in their first couture showcase Artists at Work. Hand knits became a prominent feature, with minimal embellishments. As they progressed with a second couture collection, Gardeners at Work in 2022, the evolution of knits continued with the incorporation of ‘skeinwork’ — a term coined by them to for a kind of embroidery that is not only a visual delight but also ater resistant with a featherlight quality.

Now, in their third couture showcase, Florists at Work, the designers have tested with the versatility of knits. The 50-piece edit that took over nine months to craft, encapsulates the beauty of flowers in every stitch. It draws inspiration from Shivan’s love for floral beauty and arrangements. “It’s been a long journey for me since childhood that I am obsessed with looking at any flower with attention to detail and the abundance of colours they represent. There’s a lot of abstraction in any flower, so much so that no two petals of a flower are alike, and this abstraction gives rise to balance and perfection. Our couture language stands for this very balance and beauty in abstraction.”

At the heart of this collection lies a whole new world of knits explored in ensembles like kurtas, lehengas, mini dresses, sherwanis, bandhgalas, gowns, bikini sari paired uniquely with trousers and more normbreaking styles. The ensembles are an insignia of self-love. They let the wearer express their individuality while feeling desirable, confident, and sexy. Telling us about the making process, Narresh shares, “At the very core of our brand’s DNA lies the art of swimwear. Since our inception, this category has been an integral part of our identity. And swimwear by nature is intimately close to the body and predominantly crafted from knitwear. Our choice of materials is a testament to bringing knitwear in couture and hence, is a reason why we have worked so extensively with hand knitting. The key fabrics used in the edit are silk organza, tulle, silk satin lycra, silk satin organza, silk linen, mulmul and dupian silk.”

The designers have also ventured into the realm of silk yarns that infuse the garments with luxury and fluid appeal. “We’ve blended cotton with silk yarns that bring texture and comfort. Linen yarns, when mixed with silk, create a beautiful duality of rough and smooth, and we’ve adorned them with skein, tassel, and beadwork to elevate richness. We’ve also harnessed the sheer beauty and versatility of gazar silks to create a symphony of textures. These materials are not just fabrics; they are the building blocks of our artistic expression,” Narresh tells us. The pieces are dipped in the elegant colours of ecru, vermillion, azure, champagne and onyx. The blend of dark and light tones in the collection makes the pieces suitable for both day to night time celebrations. The garments also feature skeinwork coupled with abstract motifs, prints and colour blocking which accentuates the graphic appeal of the ensembles.

The outfits are more than just embellished pieces of clothing, they are practical and cater to the new-age preferences of modern Indian taste. Narresh elaborates on the same, “In India, the traditional ideology of couture has long been associated with wearing the heaviest lehenga, often linked to a certain price point. We believe that this outdated notion is giving way to a fresh perspective, driven by the values of functionality, experience, and individuality championed by Gen Z and millennials. Today’s couture is about more than just extravagant displays of opulence. It’s about ensuring that every garment serves a purpose beyond aesthetics. Couture should empower the wearer to fully experience and enjoy the moments they wear it for — whether it’s dancing at a wedding or travelling with ease, functionality is key.”

The label has explored newness in silhouettes to cater to the evolved preferences of the wearer. Narresh shares, “Sheer lehengas are the new trend that exudes sensuality while respecting cultural norms, which we have explored. The concept of the bikini sari worn with trousers challenges conventions and encourages women to embrace their individuality. Knitted kurtas and bandhgalas offer men a chance to shine in their own right rather than being accessories to women’s fashion. Colour and abstraction have taken centrestage, breaking away from traditional motifs that might suppress the individuality of a person.”

Rs 1,38,950 upwards. In store, Banjara Hills. Also available online. 
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