In Gujarat's Kutchh region, the Khatri community is a custodian of tradition. They practice the craft of Ajrakh block-printing, celebrated for its vibrant, colourfast hues from natural dyes and intricate handblocked patterns. Now, designer Nitya Birla from Label Nitya Bajaj, revives this textile craft with a new collection titled Ajrakh.
It reimagines this rich craft into regal festive wear, featuring 52 pieces for both men and women. This line caters to modern brides and even grooms who cherish tradition and modernity. It boasts ethnic wear like lehengas, kurtas, saris and shararas alongside contemporary creations like pant suits, jackets, trench coats, kaftans, and fusion gowns.
Telling us how the craft form inspired her, Nitya shares, “Ajrakh is a magnificent craft of resist-printing that undergoes multiple layers of treatment using organic methods. Its traditional motifs and deep, vibrant colours serve as the perfect canvas for me to explore and create this festive season.” In her new edit, the designer shows the boundless potential of Ajrakh by bringing the craft beyond cotton onto luxe textiles like Modal silk, Chanderi, satin silk, satin, organza, tissue, and Lycra. She departs from the conventional indigo hues and uses shades of reds like rust, crimson and maroon that seamlessly blend with velvety blacks while also introducing fresh shades of olive,moss green, and acid green to lend a unique character to the pieces.
Further, the pieces are punctuated with intricate floral patterns that make them best suited for festive and wedding attire. To gain a deeper understanding of this craft, Nitya embarked on a journey to Gujarat where she was guided by Asfak A Khatri, head of an Ajrakh craft cluster from Anjar town and Jaideep, a skilled block printer from Surat to assist her with block printing techniques on fabrics.
We got inquisitive about the labourintensive process of this colourful craft about which Nitya shares,“It begins with soaking the fabric in a solution of camel dung, soda ash, and castor oil. After each soaking, the cloth is wrung out and left overnight. The next day, it is semi-dried in the sun before being soaked in the solution once again. This Saaj and drying process is repeated seven to eight times until the fabric foams up when rubbed. Block printing requires intricate technique and mathematical precision which is why my respect goes out to the talented printers who can do it flawlessly!”
Rs. 58,500 upwards. Available online.
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