At Kashi's feet: Ancestry’s new festive edit spotlights age old crafts of Banaras

Banaras ceases to fade from memory. Its timelessness conjured by ghats along the sacred Ganges narrates tales of devotion and prayers. Early morning boat rides serenade the visitors with stunning views of sunrise while labyrinthine narrow lanes dotted with temples speak of its historical charm. The city, popular as Kashi, is also a hub of rich crafts such as zari, brocade, and the world-renowned Banarasi silk saris.

This festive season, Manjula Tiwari, CEO & Managing Director of label Ancestry, found herself on the banks of Kashi’s Ganges. Vignettes from her memory borrowed from Varanasi’s (Banaras) cityscape inspired her new collection, Kaashi. True to its name, it pays homage to the ancient city and its exquisite crafts.

“Banaras beautifully merges ancient architecture, energy, and spirituality creating a magical amalgamation, reflected in its fabrics,” Manjula tells us, adding, “Banarasi weavers are believed to have established their presence back in the 14th century during the Mughal era. Moreover, our country has the best of history and crafts that we’re always keen on reviving and giving a contemporary spin to. A city like Varanasi, which is said to be as old as history is so relevant even today, which made us pick its breathtaking craft forms.”

The Ancestry team embarked on an immersive journey in Varanasi, sitting at ghats, savouring culinary treasures there, and exploring the quaint chambers where the age-old Banarasi weaving traditions still thrive. This exploration culminated in the Kaashi edit that features printed kurtas, jackets, dresses, Anarkali's, co-ords, skirts, and dupattas crafted from luxurious fabrics like dupion silk, viscose georgette and viscose blends. The pieces are perfect for upcoming Durga Puja, Diwali, and wedding celebrations. They are adorned with a captivating colour palette, pulled from the vivid hues seen at the ghats like shades of reds, purples and greens.

Telling us about the embroidery crafts used, Manjula shares, “We have used Banarasi brocade which is mainly characterised by Mughal motifs, floral jaals, zari thread work, dabka and sequins. The intricate weaving of these motifs makes pieces timeless in appeal. We’ve also dived into the lesser-known Tanchoi craft that is closely connected to Banaras. As per common beliefs, this weaving technique made its way to India through Parsi traders travelling via the famous silk route but its roots can be traced back to China.” Since its inception in 2018, Ancestry has been devoted to spotlighting India’s rich heritage with global influences.

Telling us how she combines new and old elements in Kaashi, Manjula shares, “We have played with a classic Banarasi sari and pre-draped it so people can have an easy pick for their festive wear. The pieces also feature quirky elements like monkey and crane prints on fabrics for a bold festive look while maintaining their alluring vintage charm.”

Rs. 2,000 upwards. Available online.
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