Renowned designer duo Pankaj and Nidhi feted for their quiet and elegant sartorial creations, marked their 15th year of being on the runway with a statement collection called XV comprising outfits in stark black and white with a little splash of colour. The entire range is all about channelling power dressing with a touch of contemporary grace.
The unveiling of the collection at the recently held LFWxFDCI saw them collaborating with the Raga by Titan Power Pearls Collection, comprising 12 unique timepieces seamlessly integrating the classic Mother of Pearl into both dial and strap.
Their quaintly titled limited edition XV line is inspired by the ceremonial Spanish ‘traje de luces’ attire of the colourful bull fighters. It stays firmly on the black and ivory turf with muted accents of gold. The filtered, monochromatic creations are embellished with intricate textured adornments including their signature exquisite inlaid appliqués and tricky lattice work that added a touch of mystery. The elaborate quilting, pixelated flowers and the pearly cord work, further added to the drama of the ensembles that underscored the concept of surface ornamentation.
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The key design elements of the edit consisted of classic, tailored jackets teamed with 3-buttoned, collared, white dress shirts, impressive extended shoulders and dramatic giant lapels and long, feminine fringes accentuating the designs. The unconventional tuxedo yokes and embellished harnesses incorporated a flamboyant flavour to the formal looks. The use of wool, silk taffeta and double knits brought the outfits to life with a distinct touch of vintage masculinity.
We talk to Pankaj to know more.
Tell us more about XV collection.
We are celebrating 15 years of being on runway in a quiet way like we always do and have taken some of our best techniques over the years like cord work, applique and other iconic techniques and filtered them down through black and white. Over the years we have experimented with colours, prints, patterns and techniques, but this time we have made it more monochromatic. It’s by and large a black and white showcase with a little bit of accent in gold with some vintage museum like florals being the only appearance colours. XV showcases our vision in monochromes fusing timeless elegance and modern power dressing. Crafted with precision and inspired by ceremonial uniforms, each of the limited-edition pieces is chic and sophisticated. It is a confident journey into the world of fashion where black and ivory meet muted gold, where antiquity meets modernity.
We are not about gowns or saris and jackets are one of our signature outfits since they are versatile, easy items that one can put on over tops or dresses and style them in any way. It’s also something which holds embroidery technique very well because of its structure, lining and the way its constructed.
What was the design philosophy behind XV?
While creating XV we had chess theme in mind, we just watched the series Queens Gambit on Netflix and it stuck in our head and inspired us. Initially we wanted to do 16 black and 16 ivory identical pieces each representing a chess piece but eventually we just kept a few identical ones. But chess remained the broad inspiration behind the collection showcase.
What’s trending this season?
We are seeing people going back to timeless pieces.
What inspires you both?
Each time we start working we want to tell new stories not for the sake of it but we go deep into it and find a thing that truly inspires us, be it Polish paper cutting, House of Cards, Spanish Matadors, Japan or vintage royal costumes. The stories should excite us too. Thankfully, inspiration still strikes and there is so much to speak in terms of clothes and we try to weave a language of expression through our designs. We resonate a lot with and we love going for stadium concerts to witnessing creativity. We are big fans of Coldplay.
How do you incorporate sustainability?
For our collections, we use a mix of natural n polyester. A lot of waste does get generated in a factory setup and over the years, we have consciously segregated waste and collected everything that can be recycled. Every few months an organisation called Gunj collects our excess fabric, threads and cut materials for re-use and we also have cartons of muslins sent to orphanages to be reused and worn. We also make ensembles with fabrics made out of recycled pet bottles by Relan.
How much does fashion critiquing on social media affect designers?
A definite cultural shift has happened thanks to the all-pervasive technological advancement and there’s a democratisation of expression, but yes, it’s unfiltered and that’s the pain of it. A lot of noise and clutter is there but the better part of it is that out of 100 influencers at least 10 of them are wearing it right and may be down the line will be the people our children will look up to and follow. We can only wish the right voices to stay on top and I hope they understand what power they wield on impressionable young minds.
What’s trending in terms of festive clothing?
Girls are going for a lot of separates and want to mix and match things like pairing a jacket with a vintage sharara or pants with some tops instead of buying an entire set form any one particular label.
If done right, monochromatic co-ord sets still work. Colour-wise, fall-winter will be all about black and gold, shades of dusty lilac, whites, blacks and olive green.
Trends that must phase out?
Coord sets will become tonal and more monochromatic and solid.