Inspired by 18th-century French rococo art, luxury handloom clothing label, Tilfi Banaras, rolls out a new collection — Quarter to Time

Love, nature and youth — three elements that have been enough for poems, painters, filmmakers and artists alike to create masterpieces that the world will laud for ages to come. Features, which can also be largely identified in French rococo art. These very features intertwine with one another once again but this time, not to enter literature or a museum but to be showcased on window displays of Indian cities. Perplexed? Named after the traditional banarasi weaving technique — brocades that use three colour yarns — of the same name, Tilfi Banaras is a renowned label that fashions statement silhouettes from Indian handlooms season after season. As a testament to that, their previous edit, Gulab Bari, named the heritage Banarasi Music Festival that goes by the same name presented handwoven and hand-dyed georgettes adorned with motifs of the chaiti rose, which is the symbolic flower of the festival. Come September, the atelier explores the artistic synergies between 18th-century French rococo art and banarasi craftsmanship for their new collection — Quarter to Time.

“Rococo was an ornate and theatrical style which permeated fashion, architecture and art in the 18th century in France, which was characterised by a uniquely light-hearted and playful essence. With our new collection Quarter to Time, we have found deep artistic synergies between 18th-century French rococo art and banarasi craftsmanship,” begins Aditi Chand, co-founder, Tilfi Banaras. Originating in early 18th century Paris, French rococo art is believed to have emerged as a trend among the French aristocracy after the death of Louis XIV when the court moved back to their old Parisian mansions from Versailles. The houses that were adorned with grand baroque style and precious metals and rich colours, now sported softer designs, graceful curves and the paintings of daily life. One could also spot boiserie, stucco adornments and mirrored glass that characterised the walls within these European homes. “The Quarter to Time collection has been inspired by the intricacies of this art movement. It has incorporated its characteristic elements into classic and celebratory Indian attire and created a fresh aesthetic in Varanasi’s heritage brocades, harmoniously building on the vocabulary of our handwoven and hand embroidered textiles,” she adds.

The word ‘rococo’ comes from the French word, rocaille, which translates to rock and shell garden ornamentation. First spotted in the decoratives, the art form highlights pastel hues, sinuous curves and soft patterns inspired by flowers, vines and shells. “Rococo architectural design comprised gilded curving forms, shell and other natural shapes, and the acanthus motif, especially as a prominent feature. Many garments for men and women featured lavish silk brocades and women’s silhouettes specifically had elements of corseted bodices, frills, ruffles and exaggerated sleeves,” the co-founder reveals.

Naturally, the flavours of this French art form, which was also identified by pastel colours and asymmetrical lines, reflected in fashion. Covered in ruffles, ribbons and ruchings, the gowns of this time were embellished with silk flowers and delicate mirror detailings — a few elements this collection has borrowed. “And what makes this collection unique is how it marries silhouettes that have defined feminine wardrobes across diverse cultures and eras. The banarasi sari and lehenga are paired with blouses that boast puffed sleeves, wide square-cut necklines, corseted and ruched bodices and hand-embroidered viscose-organza trimmings. Motifs woven into the drapes are still a fresh concept for banarasi brocades as they include rangkat and kadwa janglas featuring acanthus leaves, curvilinear forms and zari borders, which create a subtle netted background effect, akin to the structures of intricate laces that were abundantly used in rococo fashion,” Aditi shares.

Although unique in its inspiration and design vocabulary, the collection is similar in spirit to the brand’s prior endeavours of subtly building upon the rich design vocabulary of Varanasi brocades, creating innovations that seamlessly integrate into the timeless weaving repertoire. Speaking about the fabrics used to fashion these one-of-a-kind fusion ensembles, the co-founder says, “The saris in this collection are woven in pure katan silk and the lehengas in lush pure satin silk. The accompanying blouses are tailored in satin silk with viscose-organza trimmings and the lehengas are paired with delicate hand-embroidered odhanis made of pure silk organza. Additionally, the rangkat saris of the collection have been woven in alternating combinations of soft katan silk and metallic 
tissue silk.”

Featuring a symphony of pastels and delicate tones like lavender, lilac, off-white, old rose pink, peach, powder blue, taupe, sage green and pista green — the Quarter to Time brings forth silhouettes of classic and celebratory Indian attire with its handwoven and hand-embroidered banarasi saris and lehenga sets. There are seven distinct sari designs offered in a range of delicate colours and a statement lehenga, The Juliette. The ruched blouses incorporate signature rococo elements like wide necklines, corseted bodices and puffed sleeves. The collection also features a one-of-a-kind aari-embroidered tissue veil to complete an opulent bridal ensemble. “Throughout the collection, banarasi phekwa and vasket art have been artfully employed to weave zari patterns reminiscent of rococo’s gilded architectural wonders. Motifs of acanthus leaves, roses, lilies, lilacs and poppies have been rendered in 
classic kadhua and meenakari weaves,” she elaborates.

While we are still drooling over the outfits from this edit, Aditi and her team at Tilfi Banaras have already begun working on their next collection that will offer a range of saris and celebratory apparel. “Our next edit has us returning closer home with a collection that explores Mughal miniature art as a confluence of Indian and Islamic art with both geometric and organic forms of ornamentation. Later in the year, we will also be releasing a beautiful new line of shikargah designs building on our range of textiles inspired by the wilderness,” she signs off.

INR18,000 onwards. Available online.