A fan of Madonna, couturier Nupur Kanoi's personal style always channels a badass punky vibe. Her designs too have pronounced androgynous elements in them with the outfits being a combination of East meets West -- comfortable, feminine, relaxed and colourful with easy silhouettes.
Her recently launched unique collections -- occasion wear range Sheesha, and luxe resort edit Ukiyo -- reflect the same easy vibes.
For this week's cover, we have interviewed the very soft-spoked Nupur about the same and got Tollywood's very stylish and fashion-fluid star Priyanka Sarkar to flaunt four looks from the collections.
Here's an excerpt from the chat with the designer, whose label has been worn by the likes of Shilpa Shetty, Priyanka Chopra, Freida Pinto and Sara Ali Khan.
Tell us about your latest collections in detail.
We have launched two very unique collections this year -- Sheesha and Ukiyo. Sheesha is bohemian Indian occasion wear, while Ukiyo is a luxury resort collection comprising blown-up orchid prints and stripes with a 70s vibe.
What was the inspiration behind Sheesha?
Sheesha reflects our relentless love for African and Indian tribal crafts with a penchant for folk art reimagined. I feel the mirror never lies and hence there's a deliberate use of big reflective mirrors, that refrains from objectifying the wearer in a self-obsessed world. Also, there's a festive take on intricate beadwork and mirrorwork with a graphic undertone. The peacock print is a re-engineered traditional kalamkari design treated geometrically with reflective sequin and shine. We have used primary colours with tea-soaked overtones. Coconut, jade and dusty rose all amalgamate almost awkwardly with colours straight from the desert, in this 1920s meets neo-nomad narrative.
What's Ukiyo all about?
Ukiyo is an all-out resort line that echoes the feeling of living in the moment, detached from the troubles of life. Ukiyo is a Japanese term used to describe the urban lifestyle and culture, especially the pleasure-seeking aspects and orchids are a symbol of virility and sexuality in Japan. The 70s, also known as the Me Decade, was a time of cultural change coupled with atomised individualism. The rise of freedom of person and expression saw an explosion in fashion too. Ukiyo is the imagery of global street style, flower power with jailor stripes on a trip to Abbey Road.
What are the kinds of sustainable efforts your label is making?
Working with indigenous craftsmen has always been our mainstay, as painstaking hand-embroidery, shibori, bandhani and intricate handmade detailing form a large part of our aesthetic. All our garments have a story since they exchange many hands and processes before the final product is ready. Therefore, most of our styles are Indian, modern, and not just occasion based and can be easily worn as separates.
What does your fashion journey feel like after almost 17 years?
It’s been a journey of intense self-discovery. In the last 16 years, with every new collection we introduced new fabrics, embroidery techniques, dye, and printing variations that creatively challenged us. My work has changed considerably over time but somehow it is always rooted in tradition even though it’s extremely modern. We have gone from a tiny 100 square foot space to a sizeable space and team, with craftsmen who are spread all over the country, be it embroidery, bandhani or weaves, besides a flagship store in the heart of Kolkata that houses our varied collections. Being true to our belief in slow fashion, intricate detailing and versatile clothing have kept our product intrinsically global with an essentially Indian heart.
What's your design philosophy?
Experimentation is the core of design for me. I love to play with colours, silhouettes and embroidery techniques from across the globe, with a rooted sense of design and a modern aesthetic. Nature, landscapes, and my travels come through while creating the garments. There will always be a strong sense of fluid androgyny in my clothes, which is possibly an extension of my personal style.
What's working best for the spring and summer seasons this year?
I think joy is a huge takeback from the struggles of the last few years and 2023 to me is all about expressing that. Our resort line Ukiyo is exactly that and the bright blown florals and stripes are such mood-lifters for spring-summer.
What are the changes through which women's fashion has gone through?
Every decade has been quite defining in fashion over the years. Indian wedding fashion has seen a huge shift in the last decade. Women are way more experimental in their choices and quite fluid between their occasions. It’s more about being who you are on the big day rather than being stuck in tradition for the sake of it. A healthy balance of modernity with tradition is the new mantra.
Fashion faux pas that any woman should avoid when it comes to parties and western wear?
Lack of confidence -- it's crucial for any woman to always be confident in whatever they choose to wear and they should always wear outfits that suit their body type.
What are the difficulties u face as a homegrown brand and the lessons you have picked up?
With the advent of big corporates in fashion, it becomes very difficult for homegrown brands to cope with their working methods. Being true to your craft and investing in a good team are key to any homegrown brand's success. The advantages of a home-grown brand and its viability depend on product innovation and slow fashion as opposed to just churning out numbers. Quality, originality and innovation play a huge part in the distinctiveness of a brand.
What inspires you as a designer?
Each collection is inspired by nature, cultures, offbeat places, vibrant cities, intrinsic textiles, embroideries and experiences collected over time during my travels, making each of them so much more multi-dimensional and highly layered and detailed in thought.
The upcoming collection you are working on?
Our next capsule up for release is our Demi couture line that exudes the energy of the bride and her crew on the big day. Chic Indian wear for summer soirees and destination weddings for the Indian modern bride and her tribe.
Summer resort and casual wardrobe must-haves for any woman in 2023?
Anything in magenta, orange and monochrome stripes for keeps. The top choices for silhouettes would be coordinates that can be easily styled as separates.
CREDITS:
Pics: Debarshi Sarkar / Hair and makeup: Abhijit Paul, assisted by Sananda Mondal Laha / Styling: Aisha Desmukh / Jewellery: Style Addict / Location courtesy: The Bhawanipore House
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Style Guide
Actor Priyanka Sarkar takes us through her party and holiday wardrobe
Resort or travel dress code: I love the trendiest clothes while travelling apart from comfort during a long journey. I love co-ords or loose-fit joggers and airy or layered clothing including jackets and caps.
A few fave partywear: Love anything in black be it an LBD or a sari. Also, depends upon the occasion. I also love pantsuits.
Resortwear and party accessories: Though I love black, for vacations, bright pops of colours are of course preferred for resort wear. I prefer party accessories that are minimal and appropriate earrings or layered necklaces that complete the ensemble.
Beach holiday essentials: Sunscreen and chunky shades apart from beach hats, scarves, and stoles that will adequately protect you from the sun. And proper beach shoes and a small towel.
One thing you will never be caught wearing at parties: I prefer not wearing something too revealing and too exposing for a personal outing. I also have a nagging fear of being overdressed.