Poila Baisakh: Ekavali Khanna in saris by Suchismita Dasgupta
Renowned film costume designer Suchismita Dasgupta has created and nurtured her label Nextiles around her own personality — elegant with imprints of modern aesthetics, eccentric and bold, yet not on-your-face. This year, as Nextiles celebrates 20 years of being in the business of fashion, she has come up with a beautiful collection that comprises saris etched with some of their popular textures, techniques and styles!
“I have named the collection Restart. We experimented a lot with Jamdani and recreated textures with khadi and linen, cotton and silk, linen and silk. We designed new blocks for our saris and materials and used different kinds of natural dyes,” says Suchismita, who has curated four exclusive sari looks for our Poila Baisakh cover.
Donned by none other than the graceful actress Ekavali Khanna, the looks define what traditional and ethnic wear stand for in today’s times — a brilliant meld of modernity with traditional ethos. We chat with Suchismita to learn more.
Tell us about Restart.
The collection comprises a subtle mix of saris in red, grey, black, and white, with some aqua, pink, and green thrown in. The silhouettes are asymmetrical, layered, and have simple clean cuts. Though in these two decades our design sensibilities have evolved, we continue to use natural fibres like linen and khadi. This time, we mixed and matched gamchha and block-printed khadi, ikat and gamchha, linen, and jamdani.
What’s the idea behind the collection?
It is an ode to nature, sustainability, and all things handmade. A lot of things pass off as natural and handmade these days. To stay in the market and to cut costs, a lot of machinemade, power loom, polyester products are being used. Digital prints are taking the place of block prints. We are trying to keep the art alive and make it sustainable and contemporary. I have always believed that natural, sustainable products are a better style statement.
How do young fashionable women like their saris now?
Most of them want saris to be lightweight and pocket-friendly. It is really encouraging that young people are coming back to saris and experimenting with drapes. However, I think it’s up to us to make them understand that one should always have some heirloom pieces in one’s wardrobe, as that will never go out of fashion. For the sake of sustainability and to minimise waste, recycling is the key.
What’s trending in occasion and wedding wear this summer?
Pink, nude pink, off–white are trending. But for Bengalis, red will never go out of fashion. Red, cream, yellow, pink, blue, green are the trendiest colours.
What are the ccasion and wedding wardrobe must-haves?
The main essence of a Bengali wedding lies in a sari. Therefore, red and white-red are must. It strikes a balance between traditional and contemporary. Wear a traditional weave in a contemporary texture. Jamdani, Baluchori, Benarasi still work for weddings. If you like lehengas, invest in something that can be re-worn or redesigned for future use.
What’s your design philosophy?
I am a staunch believer in designing things that will last. I never believed in seasonal fashion. Which is why I create textures and silhouettes that are inspired by the old but made contemporary. My inspiration has always been art, architecture, history and nature. But I get bored easily, so, I keep experimenting with new ideas, textures, something I see in a museum or at a dhobi ghat.
What’s the collection you are working on?
I am working on textile art. They may become clothes, drapes or furnishings, I do not know yet. But they will be art objects, for sure.
REFRESHINGLY ELEGANT
The poised and eloquent actress Ekavali Khanna is carving a niche for herself in Bollywood with her impressive performances in films and series, including Kohrra, Bombay Begums, and The Lady Killer. We speak with the graceful Ekavali about her fashion choices and work.
What’s keeping you busy these days?
There are three ongoing projects with remarkable artistes and directors. I’m shooting a film with Sriram Raghavan and I just completed another film called Match Fixing, directed by Kedar Gaekwad. There’s also a new web show produced by Goldie Behl. A few months ago, I wrapped up shooting for Arindam Bhattacharya’s upcoming Bengali film, Durgapur Junction, and Suman Ghosh’s Puratawn, which also has Rituparna Sengupta and Sharmila Tagore.
What’s the secret to your glowing skin and great hair?
It’s good old virgin coconut oil — it’s a magic potion. I also eat a lot of fish and vegetables. Moreover, oil pulling has improved my overall health.
Your wardrobe essentials...
A silk sari, a chiffon sari, a cotton sari, blue jeans, a white shirt, and a black dress, besides a white salwar kameez with colourful dupattas. I like to accessorise my saris with either pearl, ruby, or emerald strings of heirloom jewellery. I think we should use our family heirlooms instead of keeping them stashed away in bank lockers. Also, I never wear earrings and neckpieces together. I am not a big fan of blingy saris and my favourite sari is always a printed chiffon. I also like printed silks. Among the traditional weaves, it’s hard to pick any one — I wear each one with pride.
What kinds of blouses do you love pairing your saris with?
I am not very experimental with blouses and I like my blouses to be well-fitted. My alltime favourite neckline is the air hostess neck. I idolise Shabana Azmi and I love wearing the high-neck blouses she wore. They look so dignified, elegant, and stylish, all at the same time. But I am flexible with styles and love experimenting too.
Your fashion choices...
When it comes to fashion choices, my mantra has always been ‘less is more’. My eternal favourite shade is baby pink and my favourite Indian outfit is the traditional white sari with a red border. When it comes to Western wear, my go-to outfit is a floralprinted summer dress. All said and done, my sartorial confidence peaks when I am in saris, which is why I wear them all the time. I am also proud of my heritage, and I wear my Indianness with pride.
An outfit that’s close to my heart is my grandmother’s exquisite pashmina shawl, it is a family heirloom and it reminds me of her when I wear it. Comfort clothing for me means being in cotton patiala salwar kameez with dupattas. I simply love dupattas since the fluid femininity of a dupatta makes it a very aesthetic garment.
What’s the roadmap for you as an actor?
Quality over quantity is my mantra. My focus is on developing my skills, not getting complacent, and working with the finest talents in the country and in various languages. I try my best to reinvent myself so that I don’t get typecast as an actor. Also, along the way, I aspire to build a fairly decent retirement fund (laughs).
What is the definition of empowerment to you?
Empowerment knows no bounds, a woman can achieve anything she sets her mind on. To me, a significant aspect of an empowered woman, along with being selfreliant is being secure, non-judgemental, and empathetic.
Pics: Debarshi Sarkar | Hair and Makeup: Surojit Sarkar | Styling: Utsab Ganguly | Blouses: Utsab Ganguly | Jewellery: Anjali Jewellers| Location: Eennra Oiitijhyya