National Handloom Day: Stylist and designer Utsab Ganguly shares four exclusive Baluchari looks
In Frame: A dual tone Baluchari from the collection, depicting the saga of Radha-Krishna in weave

National Handloom Day: Stylist and designer Utsab Ganguly shares four exclusive baluchari looks

The Puja collection 'Utsab', meaning celebrations in Bengali, comprises heritage baluchari weaves and elegant blouses inspired by the silhouettes of the Victorian era
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Designer and stylist Utsab Ganguly, who’s popular among the Kolkata’s elite Bengalis for the immaculate blouse designs, have come up with a beautiful festive collection right ahead of the Durga Puja. Called Utsab, meaning celebrations in Bengali, the collection comprises heritage baluchari weaves and some extremely elegant blouses inspired by the silhouettes of the Victorian era to go with the elegant saris. To celebrate National Handloom Day that’s on August 7, Utsab has done a four-look exclusive shoot of his festive line for Indulge, sharing the details of the same with us.

Q

Tell us all about your new collection, Utsab.

A

My new collection Utsab showcases the timeless beauty of Baluchari saris that are traditional weaves of Bengal in gorgeous festive tones. To match the saris I have come up with a range of sophisticated blouses that are inspired by the silhouettes prevalent in the Victorian era. The stories woven into the Baluchari fabrics are traditionally taken from our age-old epics like Ramayana and Mahabharata that predates the Victorian era blouses. My idea was to highlight the dynamic nature of fashion and its adaptability by blending the two different worlds influenced by different cultures.

The Baluchari tradition is steeped into the art of storytelling where tales of the great Indian epics are woven into the six yards. Using the Mahabharata as the underlined theme each of my saris tells the story of a specific set of characters. I have attempted to create a parallel timeline with the Victorian blouses that have been seamlessly infused with the traditional saris. To create this festive range, I have drawn inspiration from the Renaissance period in Bengal which saw the elite educated class adapting to the newly-introduced Victorian customs while retaining and upholding their inherent cultural ethnicity.

(Left) The beauty of 
mundane practices are weaved into this pastel green Baluchari with amber gold zari; Sakha-Sakhi Baluchari
in yellow pink dual tone
(Left) The beauty of mundane practices are weaved into this pastel green Baluchari with amber gold zari; Sakha-Sakhi Baluchari in yellow pink dual tone
Q

How fashionable has Baluchari become now?

A

To me, the true test of being fashionable and trendy is being sustainable and fluid in style. Saris like Baluchari are exactly that – they are timeless, reflects our heritage and culture and are purely handwoven, thereby upholding the sustainable practices. These saris are something that you pass down to your next generation. They are for keeps.

Q

What are the ethnic wear trends for the coming Pujas?

A

Saris are synonymous with Durga Puja and they will continue to rule the Puja fashion scene with different draping styles and statement accessories making waves. Repurposing old saris into new apparel is another way of sustainable fashion and we are seeing a lot of that nowadays.

Q

Which blouse cuts are trending this Pujas?

A

Classics are always a comfortable choice. From zero neck to plunging necklines, glass sleeves to sleeveless, these blouse cuts are always a girl’s staple as they never go out of style. Use of fine laces and heavy embroideries on the sleeves are also flavours of this season.

Q

What kind of blouses have you come up with?

A

My designs are usually customised according to individual choices of my clients. Having said that, I love going back to the classics and period-based patterns when it comes to blouses since they are timeless.

Gandhorbi Baluchari with celestial dancers and musicians weaved into the fabric
Gandhorbi Baluchari with celestial dancers and musicians weaved into the fabric
Q

What are the different ways to style a sari?

A

The traditional aatpoure Bengali style stands up beautifully to almost any occasion. Its practicality and fluidity make it one of the most comfortable draping style. Other styles that one may try include single pleats and Bombay or Parsi drapes which are very elegant and stylish. But minimalism is the catch phrase of elegant style. So, I recommend to avoid an over the top of abundant style when it comes to accessorising the sari look. Instead, you can choose a statement piece and allowing it to steal the show.

Q

Five festive wear must-haves?

A

The first two would be saris -- one in a vibrant jewel tone, and the other in the shades of white or ivory, good fitted blouse to pair with it, a potli for all ethnic wear, a pair of tan leather mojri, a statement jewellery piece to go with the look.

CREDITS:

Pictures: Probal Banerjee

Models: Piya Agarwal/Jayotree Sett/Poulami Pramanik/Piyali Bhattacharya

Makeup: Abhijith Chanda

Hair: Abhijit Das

Jewellery: Tahir

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