Inspired by the intricacies of our thoughts and desires, Aisha Rao’s latest collection Kinfolk talks about the complexity of human nature

It is the intricacy of our nature that defines us as humans. This complexity, a unique blessing, manifests in enchanting and perilous ways, shaping our actions and behavioural patterns to achieve desired outcomes. Perfection eludes us, for no human is ideal. Life rarely presents itself in stark contrasts; instead, we dwell in ever-present grey areas, where moral ambiguity reigns. Various factors contribute to this profound complexity — our emotions and desires, contradictory behaviour, moral ambiguities, environmental influences, personal growth, and even the nuances of our thought processes. This intricate fabric of human nature has long fascinated artists, fuelling endless discussions and inspiring creative expressions across diverse forms. From films and literature to music, dance, and fashion, creative minds strive to capture the myriad shades of human experience, revealing the intricate fabrics of our souls and celebrating the beautiful contradictions that define our existence. Addressing this dance of dualities is Hyderabad-based fashion designer Aisha Rao’s latest collection, Kinfolk.

In a delightful turn of artistic evolution, Aisha embarks on her inaugural journey into the realm of accessories with this collection. Alongside her mesmerising outfits, she introduces The Bag Edit, comprising a wonderful range of bags that complement her creations. This foray marks a significant expansion of her creative vision, promising fashion aficionados an enchanting ensemble that seamlessly integrates apparel and accessories. Looking ahead with fervent anticipation, she envisions the forthcoming debut of footwear — The Shoe Edit — to complete the experience for the wearers. This exciting development sets the stage for a holistic and immersive fashion journey, where each element, from garments to accessories and eventually, footwear, harmoniously reflects her distinctive aesthetic.

Aisha shares her inspiration behind Kinfolk, providing insights into what sparked this innovative idea and delves into the meticulous process of transforming abstract notions into tangible fashion statements. The designer ascended to fame with her eye-catching luxury occasion wear, particularly her stunning lehengas. Her creations are thoughtfully crafted works of art, adorned with an array of attractive elements including vibrant colours, intricate prints and patterns, and time-honoured embroidery techniques. Each piece features a range of exquisite embroideries and her signature appliqué work. Her visionary designs result in fun-spirited creations bursting with whimsical exuberance, making her lehengas the dream attire for many brides. Renowned for her innovative approach, she introduces predraped and pre-stitched saris alongside power suits and an array of avant-garde ensembles. Each design embodies a seamless fusion of heritage and innovation, showcasing her mastery in adapting traditional concepts into modern expressions.

Throwing light on Kinfolk, Aisha expresses, “This collection is a celebration of contrasting elements and the complexity of human nature. Inspired by the intricacies of our thoughts and desires, it reflects various captivating contradictions. We have translated this concept into our clothes by blending traditional and contemporary elements, embodying a creative process which is as unique as our brand’s design vocabulary.”

Inspired by her cousin’s impending marriage earlier this year, Aisha found herself drawn to the profound theme of family, shaping her latest collection with heartfelt intention. “The coming together of many contrasting elements and influences under one roof formed the basis of this collection,” she explains.

Kinfolk is thoughtfully divided into three distinct segments — menswear, couture, and prêt wear. Each segment offers a distinct look and design. “The menswear line features sophisticated and tailored ethnic outfits suitable for traditional and formal occasions,” she tells us. This include sherwanis and kurta sets suitable for weddings and formal events. The couture range consists of intricate and luxurious pieces designed for special events, showcasing ornate detailing and bespoke craftsmanship. “This range features intricately embellished lehengas ideal for grand celebrations,” Aisha adds.

The prêt wear segment contains chic and readyto-wear ensembles that effortlessly transition from day to night, blending contemporary aesthetics with comfort and flair. “You will find versatile dresses and saris suitable for various occasions,” the designer says.

If one explores the fabrics and colour palettes in Kinfolk, they reveal Aisha’s thoughtful journey of creativity and style. She has chosen fabrics such as linen satins, jacquard weaves, velvets, and printed tulle, each contributing uniquely to the collection’s aesthetic. The hues include shades of parakeet (a bird) and zesty tangerines, selected to evoke a dreamy and eclectic ambience.

Delving into the intricacies that define Aisha’s creations is always a journey of discovery and delight. Each edit unveils an assortment of elements that render her designs unique and extraordinary. For Kinfolk, she shares, “The key design elements are intricate appliqué work, lavish embellishments, and the artful juxtaposition of unique fabric combinations.” Traditional embroideries undergo a transformative voyage into the contemporary realm, infusing the collection with a radiant and glamorous allure.

We have often witnessed the designer masterfully blending the traditional and modern, seamlessly marrying the best of both worlds. “Reimagining silhouettes was a pivotal aspect of this fusion. We explored innovative draping techniques for saris, ensuring they retain their classic allure while presenting them in entirely new ways,” she shares, continuing, “Our signature embroideries, such as appliqué and badla, underwent a playful transformation. We introduced coloured badlas in lieu of traditional gold, and experimented with ombre and printed fabric appliqués instead of solid colours, which were previously predominant.”

Venturing beyond the realm of couture into the enchanting domain of accessories marks a significant evolution for Aisha with Kinfolk. Reflecting on this ambitious leap, she shares, “Our goal was to introduce accessories by the time the brand reached its fifth milestone, which motivated us to push our creative boundaries. Indeed, I have now completed five fulfilling years in the world of fashion.”

The decision to delve into accessories stemmed from Aisha’s vision to provide her customers with a comprehensive wardrobe solution under one roof. The introduction of The Bag Edit within the Kinfolk collection was inspired by a desire to offer stylish yet functional accessories that seamlessly complement her outfits. Getting into the technicalities of bags, Aisha shares, “The bags in Kinfolk feature a mix of traditional and contemporary designs, with intricate embroideries and unique fabric combinations. The colour palette ranges from earthy tones to vibrant hues.”

Staying true to the theme of family that permeates Kinfolk, Aisha incorporated contrasting elements and colours into prints like cassata. She explains, “We conceptualised rugs designed to resemble collages — cut-outs of random pieces of paper forming a unique confluence, symbolising the cohesion of a family or tribe. We collaborated with rug makers from Bhadohi and Varanasi to introduce these distinctive rugs.”

The Bag Edit features a diverse array of styles, including duffel bags, minaudiéres, and hobo bags, crafted from luxurious tactile fabrics such as velvet, tulle, and canvas. Each design is meticulously crafted and brought to life through intricate embroideries and floral motifs. The result is a collection that effortlessly caters to both minimalists and maximalists, injecting a burst of joy into every closet.

The Bag Edit showcases a versatile selection of styles, ranging from duffel bags to minaudiéres and hobo bags. Crafted from luxurious fabrics like velvet, tulle, and canvas, each piece exudes tactile sophistication. Beautifully adorned with intricate embroideries and floral motifs, these designs are brought to life with exquisite craftsmanship. The collection seamlessly accommodates both minimalist tastes and those seeking bolder statements, adding a touch of vibrancy to every wardrobe.

Although the idea of her shoe edit is still in the pipeline, Aisha tells us, “The thought behind it is to offer a complete range of accessories that enhance the overall look of our outfits.”

As a fashion enthusiast, prepare to embark on a mesmerising journey through Aisha’s Kinfolk edit, where an exquisite array of silhouettes and meticulously crafted bags awaiting to enchant and inspire.

Price on request.

Available online.

Mail ID: sakshisuresh.k@newindianexpress.com

Twitter: @kaithwas_sakshi