Taking inspiration from Uzbekistan, this edit from Payal Jain creates couture as homage to a nation’s culture!

Atelier Payal Jain stands as an emblem of timeless elegance, where the art of couture meets the rich tapestry of India’s textile legacy. Since its inception in 1993, the atelier has seamlessly bridged the ancient with the contemporary, bringing India’s profound craftsmanship to the global stage. Over the past two decades, Payal Jain has played a pivotal role in the revival of India’s endangered handicrafts, working tirelessly to preserve artisanal traditions that were on the cusp of being lost to time. Driven by an unwavering passion for heritage and an acute sense of responsibility, Payal and her team of visionary artisans have forged deep-rooted collaborations with weavers, printers, embroiderers and artisans from the farthest corners of India. Together, they breathe new life into time-honoured techniques, creating masterpieces that speak to both history and innovation. Payal’s own journey into the realm of couture is as rich and layered as the fabrics she weaves. From the bustling bylanes of Delhi, where her childhood was steeped in art, culture and music, she rose to study at the prestigious Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising in Los Angeles. This foundation of creativity and discipline laid the groundwork for her return to India, where she would go on to become a leading light in the world of fashion and sustainability. Today, Atelier Payal Jain is not just a label but a movement—one that champions both style and substance, preserving India’s artisanal heritage while setting new benchmarks for the future of fashion. Known for having dressed the likes of Victoria Beckham, Vani Kapoor, Arjun Rampal, Milind  Soman, Deepika Padukone, Priyanka Chopra and Aishwarya Rai among many others, the label has just released their latest edit, Rising Sun and we catch up with Payal to find out all you need to know about the collection.

Tell us about Rising Sun, what was it inspired by?

My trip to Uzbekistan with a dear friend some time ago left me breathless, the sheer magnitude and atrocity of proportion, the bold usage of colour, the magical blues of the incredible architecture against the vibrant blue sky, the organic earthy quality of the mosaic tiles, the liberal usage of gold, the riot of primary hues, the scale and proportion of the arches and domes, the neutral sand offsetting myriad forms and the warmth and simplicity of the people — who remain untouched by the external noise of the world! I left a piece of my heart there and felt the need to recreate the magic I felt at every step through this collection, Rising Sun, an ode to the magnificence of Uzbekistan! I was totally mesmerised by the juxtaposition of cross cultural influences in the most captivating architectural wonders of Samarkand, Tashkent and Bukhara. I felt deeply humbled, dwarfed and invisible, witnessing the enormous scale of architecture that captures the historical legacy of Uzbekistan and resilience of local people. It amazed me to see contemporary and ancient architectural monuments standing side by side; turquoise domed mosques, blue and golden frescos and towering minarets capped with massive cupolas just take your breath away. Uzbekistan thrived as the Silk Route’s epicenter, stretching over 7,000 miles and this deeply influenced the landscape as crossroads of cultures and ideas, shaping the Uzbek identity. Exploring the interiors of the monuments is like a walking into a breathtaking world of enchantment, where intricate designs, delicate tilework and historical references of various dynasties all come together in an explosion of colors, motifs, forms and shapes. From the stunning mosaics of Registan Square to the intricate woodwork of Bukhara’s mosques, every detail tells a story of the region’s history and rich craftsmanship.

Are there any motifs or designs that are specific to this collection?

Although the spectrum of possibilities was vast, I chose to explore two unique Uzbek textiles — suzani and ikat in this collection. Suzani is an ancient needlework technique, carrying influences of various regions of the world, bringing the story to life. Suzani has been part of the Uzbek heritage for centuries and is historically documented as an embroidered, decorative tribal textile in silk or cotton, embellished with vibrant motifs like pomegranates, irises, tulips and circles representing the rising sun or Moon.  The circular forms seen in these textiles are the foundation of my collection, interpreted through prints, embroideries and patchwork formations. Uzbek ikat has fascinated me for a while, the scale and proportions that are effortlessly woven into natural yarns, the strikingly narrow width only possible on hand looms, thus making it unique. The marriage between suzani embroidery and ikat motifs is pure magic. I have used natural fabrics in elaborate patchwork, first weaving the motifs into cotton and silk and later patching them together with embroideries spreading across the horizons, speckled with multi colour glass beads, silver coins, chain stitch and resham-dhaga embroidery in a vast spectrum of colours. The shades of blue, intermingled with gold, turmeric, sand and crimson have been haunting me since I saw the magnificent architecture of Samarkand, Bokhara and Tashkent and these have finally found a place in the Rising Sun!

What can we look forward to in Rising Sun, in terms of colours and silhouettes?

The shapes and silhouettes are grand and  detailing most intricate, from patchwork in vibrant katruan three dimensional fabrics, to bold prints inspired by the ikat and suzani motifs, modern interpretations of the traditional suzani embroideries, interspersed with precious beads, dull gold details, chain jurma stitch in black and white to highlights the primary colours, medley of blues with splashes of crimson, emerald, saffron and turmeric. During my travels, I collected several old textiles and beaded trims used as adornment or displayed on doorsteps of homes and repurposed them into short wrap skirts, oversized stoles, accessories, sling bags and bandanas. The jewellery was meticulously made with rustic stones, typical of the region, integrated with old silver coins, ceramic beads, leather straps, textile scraps, hand-crafted macrame and crochet details. Gladiator sandals, chunky jewellery, head pieces and hair braided with multi-colour beads complete the look of a nomad wandering through the Uzbek landscape. 

And what are the fabrics you have chosen for this collection?

I have used only natural fabrics for this collection, as they are gentler on the environment. The usage of my favourite katruan from Varanasi, woven on back float looms, with tiny, delicate motifs inspired by the intricate tilework and vibrant ocean of blues I saw across the Uzbek landscape! The collection is a canvas of natural yarns, primary hues and intricate patchworks of silk georgette, crepe, satin, taffeta, linen slub, cotton and silk chanderi, cotton mulmul, denim and crochet. Weaves, prints and embroideries effortlessly merge into each other, like the amalgamation of the earth and sky.

INR 10,000 onwards. Available from February 2025. Online and in stores.

Email: romal@newindianexpress.com

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