Designer Shruti Sancheti’s quest for experimenting with textiles and crafts, continues with her latest collection

As someone who lives out of suitcases, designer Shruti Sancheti is strongly drawn to the nomadic way of living, and believes she was a nomad in a previous life. Her clothes are very bohemian, and even when she designs luxury pieces, it’s always an interpretation of bohemian luxury. Craft and weaves are particularly close to her heart, and she finds it difficult to relate to bling.

“Even when there is a lot of intricate work in my designs, they always appear understated and restrained rather than flashy. My designs are subtle by nature, reflecting my core philosophy. However, impeccable detailing and immaculate tailoring are key elements that I focus on and take great pride in as a designer. As a brand, we believe that restrained luxury is our forte, and it’s what we offer to our customers,” says Shruti, whose label was recognised last year as one of the top-performing women-led organisations, receiving an award from the textile minister for achieving the highest turnover in that category.

“We aim at continuing to expand globally, entering new markets, and domestically, we’re committed to working with as many artisans as possible, exploring the vast legacy of Indian textiles and crafts. Even if I cover every region of India, there would still be untapped potential waiting to be explored,” she tells us in this heart-to-heart chat.

Keeping in line with her design philosophy, Shruti also recently came up with a beautiful collection called Advaya that pays a tribute to the beautiful textiles, crafts, and printing techniques that are unique to our country, like the Chintz, and Paisleys, known as Ambi, which originated in Kashmir and later spread across the nation.

Shruti has interpreted these two motifs in various techniques, including hand embroidery such as Ektar, French knots, Ari, chain stitch, and Kantha, exploring every beautiful possibility of hand embroidery. This collection also incorporates intricate weaving techniques and printing methods like kalamkari, screen printing, and block printing, creating beautiful layers in handwoven fabrics like matka silk, khadi silk, traditional silk from Karnataka, and luxurious velvets, historically called makamals in Mughal India. Sheer, exquisite silk organzas and satins are also featured in this edit on a colour palette consisting of olive, rust, maroon, burgundy, chocolate brown, and black, along with the quintessential ivory -- perfect for the fall-winter festive season. Every piece in the collection is meticulously detailed, with elements like ruching, pin tucks, and delicate details on the reverse sides of the fabrics.

“The concept was to create easy separates while emphasising understated elegance and refined luxury. These layered garments are designed as heirlooms, meant to be cherished and passed down through generations, celebrating the slow, luxurious fashion that has become synonymous with Brand India,” avers Shruti.

Shruti feels that Indian weddings have evolved in format, with destination and fun-themed weddings becoming the norm. Brides today are embracing fun at their own weddings. And hence, this season too, will reflect a more relaxed vibe, though, of course, with the requisite touch of opulence.

“This season’s bridal look will mix Indian silhouettes with Western tailoring, creating a global and relaxed aesthetic—distinct from the traditional bridal style. Expect to see skirts, especially heavily embroidered ones, paired with tops, along with stunning heirloom jewellery, elegant lehengas, and saris in rich, woven fabrics like Kanjivarams and Banarasi. Banarasi jackets will also be very popular. The colour palette will veer away from the conventional, featuring warm hues such as maroon, burgundy, chocolate brown, emerald green, and blue. Ivory, a timeless favourite, will also remain in vogue,” Shruti says.

The bridesmaids' attire has completely changed, too, with the emphasis now on fun and comfort, feels Shruti.

Naturally, choices will veer towards crushed skirts, relaxed corsets, capes, lightweight saris, and crop-top skirts besides the classic choices like shararas, salwar kameez sets, and pant suits, along with the ever-trending coordinated sets. For winter weddings, bridesmaids will also layer up with stylish outerwear that has Western-inspired cuts but retains an Indian essence, forecasts Shruti.

Shruti’s summer collection is ready and is a beautiful, season-fluid collection featuring breathable, fluid fabrics like mulmul, linen, and chambray. The silhouettes are easy and breezy, perfect for harsh summers, with dainty ditzy embroidery. Beautiful floral and paisley prints are paired with delicate laces and trims, adding charm to each piece. Silhouettes include easy maxi dresses, kaftans, co-ord sets, skirts, and crop tops—essentially everything the brand is known for. The colour palette features ivory, matcha, butter yellow, and a sky blue that borders on indigo.