Chennai-based brand, Kanakavalli, renowned for its curated collection of kanjivaram saris, pays homage to and elegantly showcases the rich legacy of the traditional weave originating from the temple town of Kanchipuram. Stepping into the new year, Kanakavalli celebrates the inherent and dramatic geometry of the kanjivaram sari, highlighting the exquisite craftsmanship with their Kattam Vari Collective, featuring an array of checked and striped saris. “The Kattam Vari Collective showcases patterns that are an intrinsic part of the kanjivaram craft. The distinctive checks and stripes carry the legacy of regional traditions and a rich textile heritage,” begins Ahalya S, founder, Kanakavalli, on why she chose these designs for the New Year edit.
The checks and stripes of the kanjivaram sari showcase a stunning interplay of vibrant colours, skillfully combining contrasting and complementary hues. These intricate patterns not only highlight the unique structure and geometry of the kanjivaram but also contribute to a visually captivating aesthetic. In kanjivarams, the key distinguishing element lies in the geometrical underpinnings of the design and the meticulous mathematical precision employed in arranging the colours. “Kattam and vari or checks and stripes are an integral aspect of the kanjivaram craft’s design language. These patterns beautifully complement and emphasise the inherent geometry and bold layout of the drape. The checks and stripes of the kanjivaram take on a multitude of different forms and representations, from the tiny gingham checks of the kasa kasa kattam (named after poppy seeds) and the dramatic black and white High Court checks, to the thandavalam stripes inspired by parallel train tracks. There’s also the shimmer of vaira oosi stripes inspired by the fineness of a diamond needle. Drawing inspiration from local and cultural sources, these patterns of the kanjivaram craft maintain a distinct language that has endured over generations,” she shares.
The collection features vibrant coloured blocks inspired by the classic Madras Check, as well as stunning gold checkerboard checks that frame woven motifs. Additionally, it showcases fine gingham or muthu kattam. Keep an eye out for broad colour band stripes adorning the pallu or body of the silk, along with delicate metallic and silken pinstripes. This assortment of kanjivarams exemplifies the diverse yarns and zari in both the warp and weft of the sari, resulting in the beautiful expressions of kattam and vari on the kanjivaram drape. The straightforward notion of checks and stripes has undergone a distinctive transformation at the hands of skilled weavers, who have seamlessly incorporated vibrant colours and unique patterns into the assertive geometry of the fabric.
₹18,800 onwards. At Setlur Street, Langford Town.
srushti@newindianexpress.com
@Sru_Kulkarni