Amid the gilded backdrop of the Monnaie de Paris, designer Pierpaolo Piccioli presented a vision of Valentino that subtly balanced artistic expression with practicality. The collection opened with a clear nod to classic professionalism: suits in black paired with black ties and oversized jackets from the '80s era, signalling readiness for the business world.
This initial presentation of the “Men in Black” aesthetic was both a homage to traditional menswear and a hint at its evolution. The oversized white jacket added a touch of debonair flair, suggesting a new, more relaxed approach to formal wear — and a bid to appeal to a certain client.
Utilitarian workman outfits and denim pieces amid such formality suggested a blending of different worlds. Piccioli's strategic flashes of Valentino’s signature vermillion also added a layer of depth. This use of colour seemed to symbolize individuality within the constraints of business in what was a welcome touch.
The craftsmanship in the collection was evident but always subtle. A coat with long, weighty lengths felt fashion forward, representing Valentino’s heritage of luxury tailoring and eye to the future. However, the collection as a whole maintained a more subdued tone, focusing on the saleable, wearable and practical.